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HISTORY In the late 1950s, the United Kingdom 's entrenched Class System limited most working class people's educational, housing, and economic opportunities. However, Britain's post-war Economic Boom led to an increase in Disposable Income among many young people. Some of those youths spent that income on new fashions popularised by American Soul groups, British R&B bands, certain movie actors, and Carnaby Street clothing merchants.1http://www.modculture.co.uk/culture/archive.php?category=modscenepast Articles from Modculture.com These youths became known as the , straight-leg Jeans or Sta-Prest Trousers , button-up shirts, and braces (called Suspenders in the USA). When possible, these working-class mods spent their money on suits and other sharp outfits to wear at dancehalls, where they enjoyed Soul , Ska , Bluebeat and Rocksteady music.http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2005/is_1_38/ai_n6234788/pg_13 Around 1965, a Schism developed between the ''peacock mods'', who were less violent and always wore the latest expensive clothes, and the ''hard mods'' (also known as '' Gang mods''), who were identified by their shorter hair and more working-class image.4 Also known as ''lemonheads'' and ''peanuts'', these hard mods became commonly known as skinheads by about 1968.5 Their shorter hair may have come about for practical reasons, since long hair can be a liability in industrial jobs and a disadvantage in streetfights. Skinheads may also have cut their hair short in defiance of the more bourgeois Hippie culture popular at the time.http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,909318,00.html?promoid=googlep In addition to retaining many mod influences, early skinheads were very interested in s by Richard Allen , notably ''Skinhead'' and ''Skinhead Escapes''.http://www.skinhead.no/content/articles/richardallen.asp http://www.stewarthomesociety.org/sex/gensexco.htm Due to largescale British migration to Perth, Western Australia , many British youths in Perth joined skinhead/ Sharpies gangs in Medina, Rockingham, Armadale, Kelmscott, Lynwood and Thornlie in the 1960s; forming their own Australia n style. By the 1970s, the skinhead subculture started to fade from popular culture, and some of the original skins dropped into new categories, such as the '' Suedeheads '' (defined by the ability to manipulate one's hair with a comb), ''smoothies'' (often with shoulder-length hairstyles), and ''bootboys'' (with mod-length hair; associated with gangs and Hooliganism ).http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,909318,00.html?promoid=googlep 6 7 Some fashion trends returned to mod roots, reintroducing Brogues , Loafers , suits, and the Slacks -and- Sweater look. In 1977, the skinhead subculture was revived to a notable extent after the introduction of Punk Rock . Most of these revival skinheads were a reaction to the commercialism of punk and adopted a sharp, smart look in line with the original look of the 1969 skinheads and included Gary Hodges and Hoxton Tom McCourt (both later of the band the 4-Skins ) and Suggs , later of the band Madness . From 1979 onwards, skinheads with even shorter hair and less emphasis on traditional styles grew in numbers and grabbed media attention, mostly as a result of their involvement with Football Hooliganism . These skinheads wore Punk-influenced styles like higher boots than before (14-20 eyelets) and tighter jeans (sometimes splattered with Bleach ). However, there were still several skinheads who preferred the original mod-inspired styles. Eventually different interpretations of the skinhead subculture expanded beyond The UK and Europe. One major example is that in the United States , certain segments of the Hardcore Punk scene embraced skinhead style and developed its own version of the subculture. RACISM, ANTI-RACISM AND POLITICS In the late 1960s, some skinheads (including skinhead violence in the UK became more partisan, and groups such as the National Front and the British Movement , saw a rise in skinheads among their ranks. Although many skinheads rejected political labels being applied to their subculture, some Working Class skinheads blamed non- White Immigrants for economic and social problems, and agreed with far right organizations' positions against blacks and Asians . By the late 1970s, some openly Neo-Nazi groups were largely composed of skinheads, and by this point, the the Mass Media , and subsequently the general public, had largely come to view skinheads exclusively as a subculture promoting white power. However, during the late 1970s and early 1980s, many skinheads, Suedeheads , ex-skinheads and Football Casuals in the UK rejected the dogma of both the left and right. This anti-extremist attitude was musically typified by Oi! bands such as Cockney Rejects , The 4-Skins and The Business . Some skinheads countered the neo-Nazi culture; two examples of this were the Glasgow Spy Kids in Scotland (who coined the phrase ''Spirit of 69''), and the publishers of the ''Hard As Nails'' Zine in England. No Mean City - The Skinhead Nation Political categories There are several different political categories of skinheads. However, many skinheads don't fit into any of these categories. The usefulness of these terms is to explain the dominant forces of skinhead political groupings. There are no reliable statistics documenting how many skinheads have belonged to each category. or Anti-Racist Action . White power and traditional skinheads (especially in the U.S.) sometimes refer to them as ''baldies''. Apolitical skinheads either oppose all politics in general, are politically Moderate , or keep their personal political views out of the skinhead subculture. Skinheads on either extreme of the political spectrum sometimes refer to this type as a ''fencesitter'' or ''fencewalker''. .http://www.geocities.com/capitolhill/lobby/3475/index2.html Right Wing skinheads are Conservative and Patriotic , but not necessarily extreme or Fascist . This type of skinhead seems to be common in the United States .http://www.stuffmagazine.com/articles/index.aspx?id=1519 White Power Skinhead s or Neo-Nazi skinheads are Racist , extremely Nationalist and highly political.http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2005/is_1_38/ai_n6234788/pg_1http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2007/02/06/national/main2440306.shtml Many Nazi skinheads have no connection to the original 1960s skinhead culture in terms of style or interests. SHARPs and traditional skinheads often refer to them as ''boneheads''. STYLE AND CLOTHING In addition to short hair, skinheads are identified by their specific clothing styles. Skinhead fashions have evolved somewhat since the formation of the subculture in the 1960s, and certain clothing styles have been more prevalent in specific geographic locations and time periods. The following list includes many of the clothing articles that have been worn by skinheads.89 RudeBoy/Skinhead Style - Ruder Than the Web! Hair:
Tops:
Coats: MA-1 type ) and Warrior), usually black or green; blue Denim jackets (Levi's or Wrangler); Harrington Jacket s; monkey jackets; Crombie -style overcoats; short Mac s; Sheepskin 3/4 length coats; Donkey Jacket s; Parka s. Bottoms:
Footwear:
Hats: Trilby hats; Pork Pie Hat s; Flat Cap s (AKA ''Scally cap'', ''Benny'' or ''driver cap'') or Winter Woolen Hat s (without bobble). Less common have been Bowler Hat s (mostly among Suedeheads and those influenced by the film A Clockwork Orange ). Braces: Various colours, usually no more than ¾ inch in width. In some areas, braces much wider than that may identify a skinhead as either unfashionable or White Power . Braces are worn up in an X or Y-shape at the back. Some Oi!-oriented skinheads wear their hanging braces down, so they can be seen when wearing a jacket. Badges: Button badges or sewn-on fabric patches with text and/or images related to bands or the skinhead subculture. Politically-minded skinheads sometimes wear badges related to their ideological views. Style categories There are several different types of skinheads in terms of style. Some skinheads don't fit into any of these categories, and many display characteristics of more than one category. The usefulness of these terms is to explain the dominant skinhead styles. There are no reliable statistics documenting how many skinheads have belonged to each category. Traditional skinheads, also known as trads or Trojan Skinhead s, identify with the original 1960s skinhead subculture in terms of music, style, culture and Working Class pride. Unlike the other categories of skinheads, most traditionalist skinheads do not regard attitudes toward politics or racism as central to the subculture. Oi! and Punk-skinhead s originated after the development of Punk Rock in the 1970s. They often have shorter hair and more Tattoo s than 1960s skinheads, and wear items such as higher boots, tighter Jeans , T-shirt s and Flight Jacket s that their traditionalist counterparts. Although the original Oi! bands advocated a pro-worker populist stance, the Oi! music fanbase includes a wide range of political beliefs, from far left to far right. Hardcore skinheads originated in the United States Hardcore Punk scene in the late 1970s (with bands such as Iron Cross , Agnostic Front , Cro-mags , Sheer Terror , Warzone and Murphy's Law ). They differ from traditional skinheads by their musical tastes and a style of dress that is less strict. Political views vary, and are not essential to this group. Laces and braces Some skinheads, particularly highly political ones, attach significance to the colour of boot laces, braces, and (less commonly) flight jackets. Some use them to indicate beliefs or affiliations. The particular colours used have varied regionally, so only skinheads from the same area are likely to interpret them accurately. In many areas laces must be 'laddered' - arranged with the outside laces horizontal and parallel, resembling a ladder - to be considered of any significance. The "braces and laces game" has largely fallen into disuse, particularly among traditionalist skinheads, who are more likely to choose their colours for fashion purposes. Tattoos '', ''ACAB'' (All Cops Are Bastards), ''SKIN'', ''Skinhead'' or ''Bootboy''. Tattoos popular among anti-racist skinheads include: a and Anarchist skins may have political symbols such as Red Star s, Red Flag s, Hammer And Sickle s or Anarchy Symbol s.) Tattoos common among white power skinheads include: '', ''WP'', ''88'' ( Heil Hitler ), ''1488'' ( Fourteen Words /Heil Hitler), ''HFFH'' (Hammerskins Forever, Forever Hammerskins), '' Blood & Honour '' (or ''B&H''); Celtic Cross or other Celt ic symbols; Rune s, Viking s or other Nordic symbols (which white power skins use to symbolize White culture.) MUSIC The skinhead subculture was originally associated with Ska , Rocksteady and Reggae music, by artists such as Desmond Dekker , Derrick Morgan , Laurel Aitken , Symarip and The Pioneers . The link between skinheads and reggae led to the development of a subgenre known as skinhead reggae. Many of the early skinheads also enjoyed Soul Music and Rhythm And Blues . Suedeheads of the early 1970s also listened to British Glam Rock bands such as The Sweet , Slade and Mott The Hoople .10http://www.themilkfactory.co.uk/interviews/rhkiw.htm The most popular music style for late-1970s skinheads was Record Label that featured bands such as The Specials , Madness and The Selecter .http://2-tone.info/articles/books.htmlMoskowitz, David V. (2006). Caribbean Popular Music. Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press, 270. ISBN 0-313-33158-8http://www.thespecials.com/history3.php The record label scored many top 20 hits, and eventually a number one. Some late 1970s skinheads also liked certain Punk Rock bands, such as The Clash , Sham 69 and Menace; and by the late 1970s, the Oi! subgenre was embraced by many skinheads and Punks .Dalton, Stephen, "Revolution Rock", Vox, June 1993 Musically, Oi! combines elements of punk, Football Chant s, Pub Rock and British glam rock. Oi! – The Truth by Garry Bushell The Oi! scene was partly a response to a sense that many participants in the early punk scene were, in the words of , Blitz , The Business, Last Resort, Combat 84 and The 4-Skins .11 Not exclusively a skinhead genre, many Oi! bands included skins, punks and people who fit into neither category (sometimes called herberts). American Oi! began in the 1980s with bands such as The Press, Iron Cross , The Bruisers , Anti-Heros and Forced Reality. American skinheads created a link between their subculture and Hardcore Punk music, with bands such as Warzone , Agnostic Front , and Cro-Mags . The Oi! style has also spread to other parts of the world, and remains popular with many skinheads. Many later Oi! bands have combined influences from early American hardcore and 1970s British streetpunk. Although many and other types of Rock Music . FOOTNOTES EXTERNAL LINKS
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