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THE BUSINESS As the development of the industry is closely tied to Western population change and clothing industry growth, the plus-size model industry has grown in fairly equal strides at various points on the globe. Many well known model agencies have created divisions to specifically locate and develop potential models to serve demand. Well-known high fashion designers are starting to look more closely at the earning potential from serving consumers wearing plus-size clothing with Prêt-à-porter , and have started booking plus-size models for their advertising campaigns and catwalks. Jean-Paul Gaultier and John Galliano both used plus-size models in their Spring 2006 showings in Paris. Italian plus-size fashion house Elena Mirò now regularly stages a [[prêt-à-porter show during Fashion Week in Milan. Arguably the most important region of growth has been within North America, where a diverse population and a flourishing media industry has created a unique culture around plus-size modeling, and enabled the ongoing operation of approximately 25+ agencies either specifically representing plus-size models or with divisions to do so. The industry at an international level also includes several well-established agencies in England, Germany and Australia, collectively serving clients throughout Western and Central Europe, South Africa, and the South Pacific and Asian regions. Plus-size models have been serving the strong German client market for over 15 years. Development of the industry in the United States Although it is known that U.S.-based manufacturers used larger models to show their plus-size clothing as early as the 1940s, the bias against larger consumers and models pervasive in the fashion industry worked to keep this particular concept of modeling out of the general public's eye until the early 1990s. Lane Bryant is widely acknowledged to have been the first large-scale producer of plus-size clothing in North America and therefore user of plus-size models. It began trading in the early 1920s as a producer of clothing for 'Expectant Mothers and Newborns'. By the mid-1920s, Lane Bryant started selling clothing under the category 'For the Stout Women', which ranged between a 38-56 inch bustline. The earliest catalogs used illustrations only to sell their products, but by the mid-1940s photographs were integrated into the catalogs as the evolution of photo technology made this option available. After a brief hiatus from using larger models through the 1960-1970 period, Lane Bryant again began using plus-size models and today remains one of the plus-size model industry's most prestigious and desired clients. The main players, U.S. Gary Dakin headed the Karin Models' ''Curves'' division, only to leave after a short time to develop the agent '''Susan Georget''' started the ''Wilhelmina 10/20'' division in New York 1994. Together, these agents have recruited the highest calibre of models in the industry and are credited with expanding opportunities for plus-size models beyond working solely for plus-size clothing retailers. Both agents are also regarded as holding the most power in the plus-size model industry, although Georget and Dakin have now removed themselves from day-to-day booking tasks. With strong cooperation from Wilhelmina 10/20, Curves and Ford 12+, the premiere issue of '''. In 1995, Lane Bryant began a transformation of the brand, targeting younger customers with more fashion-forward clothing. Through a series of runway shows and celebrity spokespersons including Queen Latifah , Mia Tyler , Camryn Manheim , Anna Nicole Smith , and Sex And The City In February 2000, Lane Bryant launched [http://lanebryant.charmingshoppes.com/pagebuilder/cacique_landing?PAGEID=1502 Cacique] intimate apparel, and held the first lingerie fashion show for plus-size women. The event was widely acclaimed and created millions of impressions in the press. In 2002, more than 200 million people worldwide watched website playback of the Lane Bryant fashion show featuring 70s rock band KISS. In 2003, the fashion show featured MC Roseanne Barr in a cabaret setting complete with Moulin Rouge -style singers and dancers, which Barr later described as being largely ignored by TV media. Setbacks to growth, U.S. Occurring shortly before the time of MO''D''E's closure was the failure of several designers' ventures into the plus-size market. Versace (''Versatile''), Valentino (''Carisma''), ''Anne Klein Plus'' and others ceased producing the clothing which MO''D''E Magazine relied upon, leaving a gaping hole in both the fashion department wardrobes and advertising revenue coffers of MO''D''E Magazine and its successor/s.
State of the U.S. industry today While the Internet has provided a breeding ground for a growing number of grassroot E-zines , model agencies, online retailers, calendar projects and other associated ventures, the lack of a true fashion print publication serving the plus-size consumer in North America has compounded the stagnation in the growth of the North American plus-model industry. With supply of models currently much higher than demand from clients now struggling with reduced advertising budgets, and agencies raising model standards and tightening their belts financially and reducing the number of models they represent, a substantial nudge is required for the industry to experience a growth comparable to that which it enjoyed in the late 1990s. The April and May U.S. editions of '' Vogue '' and '' Glamour '' have recently featured plus-size models in fashion editorial and articles regarding healthy body image. While some believe the discussion of self-esteem and body image is not the primary business of the plus-size model, this type of coverage in mainstream media does serve the purpose of furthering the potential for growth as the media embraces models over a U.S. size 12 and shows them in a positive light. It should be noted that a bare handful of models are being used repeatedly in this regard, creating the impression that only a few models are 'acceptable' to the media in portraying the concept of plus-size modeling and the associated industry. U.S. television program America's Next Top Model has featured contestants Robin Manning /Cycle 1, Tocarra Jones /Cycle 3, Diane Hernandez /Cycle 5, Diana Zalewski /Cycle 8, and Whitney Cunningham /Cycle 8 acknowledging the plus-size industry's relevance to fashion since the show's launch in 2000. After elimination from the competition most of the contestants have signed contracts with the Wilhelmina agency, although to date none have successfully translated their new celebrity into an ongoing modeling career. 2007 was the launch year for several calendar projects featuring women over a U.S. size 12, namely the Fenomenal Calendar featuring Ford and Wilhelmina models, '''Luscious''' featuring models from lesser known U.S. agencies, and Australian agency '''Bella Models'''' eponymous lingerie calendar that raised funds for local eating disorder foundations. While the primary aim of the calendars would be self-promotion, the wide-spread availability and enthusiastic media attention Elle Canada magazine article , given to their release could sensibly be thought to expand the scope of related opportunities for all larger models, as well as foster a healthier social and industry attitude towards plus-size modeling and larger body shapes in general. NOTABLE PLUS-SIZE MODELS, NORTH AMERICA
NOTABLE PLUS-SIZE MODELS, OTHER REGIONS
PLUS-SIZE CELEBRITIES/ENTERTAINERS Celebrities who wear clothing larger than a standard U.S. size 8 have increasingly been attracting endorsement contracts as advertisers seek to extend size-acceptance into the film, TV and music industries, and/or make use of their family or other connections. Please note that women who have lost weight, dropping below a size 10, since gaining popularity do not form part of this entry.
THE RELATIONSHIP OF PLUS-SIZE MODELING TO CLASSICAL IDEALS OF BEAUTY Various magazines and advertising campaigns have depicted plus-size models as embodying a return to the voluptuous alongside a replica of the Venus de Milo {Link without Title} . REFERENCES |
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