| Clothing In The Ancient World |
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This article deals with clothing in the ancient world. In antiquity, the ways of producing clothing and the types of clothing that each civilisation used strongly reflect the technologies that these peoples mastered. Archaeology plays a big part in looking at this aspect of ancient life, for fabric fibres and leathers are sometimes well-preserved through time. They are, in addition, witnesses to where their wearers stood in society and on what rung of the social ladder. EGYPTIAN CLOTHING In Ancient Egypt , Flax was the Textile in almost exclusive use. Wool was known but considered impure - animal fibres being the subject of taboo, only little were used, for instance for Coats and also in the temples and sanctuaries. Only "free" people wore clothes; slaves were naked. Peasants, workmen and people of lower class only wore a loincloth, in addition to the shenti carried by men of all classes. Shoes were the same for both sexes; Sandals braided with Leather , or, particularly for the Sacerdotal class, Papyrus . The headgear consisted mostly of ''klaft'', a striped fabric square carried by the men. Certain clothing was common to both sexes such as the Tunic and the Robe . The men wore a type of loincloth called the ''shenti'', and scarf round the waist similar to a belt. Around 1425 to 1405 BCE, a light tunic or short-sleeved shirt was popular, as well as a ''jupon''. Female clothing remained permanent and unchanged during several millennia, changed only by small details. Draped clothes, with very large rolls, gave the impression that it sometimes constituted various clothes. It was in fact ''haïk'', often of very fine muslin. The dress was rather narrow, even constricting, made of white or unbleached fabric for the lower classes, the sleeve starting under the chest in higher classes, and maintained by Suspenders tied onto the shoulders. These suspenders were sometimes wide enough to cover both shoulders, and were painting and coloured for various reasons, for instance to imitate a plumage on the wings of Isis . Clothing of the Royal Family was different, and was well-documented; for instance the crowns of the pharoahs (see links below), the Nemes head dress, and the Khat or head cloth worn by nobility. Perfume and Cosmetics The practice of the embalming made it possible to develop cosmetic products and Perfumery very early. Perfumes in Egypt were scented oils, and were very expensive. They were most needed in Antiquity , during which the people made great use of it. The Egyptians used Make-up much more than anyone else at the time. Kohl , used as eyeliner, was obtained as a substitute for Galena or lead oxide. Eye shadow was made of crushed Malachite , and lipstick of Ochre . Beauty products were generally mixed with animal grease in order to make them more compact, more easily handled and to preserve them. Nails and hands were also painted, with Henna . Only the lower class had Tattoos . It was also fashionable at parties for men and women to wear a perfumed cone on top of their heads. The cone was usually made of ox tallow and myrrh and as time passed melted and released a pleasant perfume. Wigs Wigs were used by both sexes of the upper class. Made of real hair, they contained other decorative elements. In the Court, the more elegant examples had small goblets at the top filled with perfume. The heads were shaven; the Egyptians are the only people of antiquity to have systematically practised depilation. For them, the wigs represented humanity, not animality; as might be suggested from the origin of the hairs. Jewellery Jewels were heavy and rather bulky, which would indicate an Asian influence. The middle classes wore small and simple glassware; Bracelets were also heavy. The most popular stones used were Lapis Lazuli , Carnelian and Turquoise . Ornaments As we have seen, wigs contained ornamental decorations. A peculiar ornament which the Egyptians created was ''gorgerin'', an assembly of metal discs which rested next to the skin of the of the chest or a short-sleeved shirt, and tied at the back. (Egypt) See also CRETAN CLOTHING As elsewhere, Cretan clothes in the ancient times were well documented, and were used by priests and priestesses. Wool and flax were used. Spinning and Weaving were domestic activities, dyeing was the only commercial process in keeping with everywhere else in antiquity. Fabrics were embroidered. Crimson was used the most in dyeing, in four different shades. Male Dress Practically all men wore was a loincloth. Unlike the Egyptians, the ''shenti'' varied according to its cut, and was normally arranged like a short skirt or apron, ending in a point sticking out like a tail. It was a primitive piece of clothing; the fabric passed between the legs, adjusted with a belt, and decorated almost certainly with metal. It was worn not only by princes but also working men. In addition to Cretan, Cycladelic clothing was worn as pants across the continent. A triangular front released the top of the thighs. One could say it was clothing of an athletic population, because of this and the fact that the chest was always naked. It was sometimes covered with a cask, probably ritualistically. However, long clothing was worn for protection against bad weather; a coat of wool later used by the Greeks. Men had long and flowing hair on the shoulders; however several types of headgear were usual, types of Bonnet s and Turban s, probably of skin. Shoes were in fact Boots of skin (probably Chamois ) were used only to leave the house where one went barefoot, just as in the sanctuaries and the palaces. People studying this matter have noticed the outdoor staircases are worn down considerably, interior ones hardly at all. It's known that later, the Greeks took off their sandals after entering a house - this habit was already in use in Crete. The boots had a slightly raised end, thus indicating an Anatolia n origin, similar to those found on the frescoes of Etruria . Female Dress Before -1750 BCE, the loincloth was used by both sexes. The women wore it more like an underskirt than the men by lengthening it. They are often illustrated in statuettes with a large dagger fixed at the belt. It was undoubtedly one of the characteristics of female clothing in the Neolithic era, because one also found traces of it in the peat bogs of Denmark up to the Bronze Age . From 1750, the lengthened skirt was trimmed and became more like a blouse in appearance. The belt, the long or short coat and a hat supplemented the female outfit. The Cretan female clothing was the first true ''bent'' garment in history. Ancient brooches, widespread in the Mediterranean, were used throughout the period. CLOTHING OF CLASSICAL GREECE CLOTHING IN ANCIENT ROME CLOTHING OF ANCIENT CHINA COSTUME OF ANCIENT INDIA |
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