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Black tie is a Dress Code for formal evening events, whose primary component is the '''dinner jacket'''. The jacket and matching trousers are typically called a '' Tuxedo '' in the United States and Canada; they are known in Continental Europe and Japan as ''smoking'', a Pseudo-Anglicism from earlier ''smoking jacket''. Black tie is today worn at a wide variety of functions, and the corresponding female attire can range from a short Cocktail Dress to a long Evening Gown , depending on fashion, local custom and the hour at which the function takes place. The waist sash, called a Cummerbund , was borrowed after World War I from military dress in British India . Black waistcoats are often worn instead of cummerbunds. There is also an older tradition carried over from white tie, which has largely died out, of wearing a white waistcoat with a dinner jacket when ladies are present. This is an option seen only on the most dress tradition conscious Dandy today. ELEMENTS Brian Mulroney and American President Ronald Reagan wearing dinner jackets in Quebec , Canada , March 18, 1985.]] Compared with the more codified White Tie , black tie leaves much to the wearer's discretion (e.g. single- vs. double-breasted coat). In recent years, a wide rift has opened between traditional ( British ) black tie and more modern approaches (American). Many men, especially in the United Kingdom , would consider only the traditional to be black tie at all. In the United States, the "west coast black tie" has been used to describe a formal event at which the tuxedo and a wider variety of formal wear are acceptable. The term may have originated in the Hollywood community and is now used more broadly. The Four-in-hand is appropriate as is more variety in tie color. The elements of a black-tie ensemble are:
Coat The dinner jacket is usually made of black wool, without vents or pocket flaps, with grosgrain (ribbed-silk) or satin lapels. Traditionally, there are two styles of lapel: the peaked lapel, derived from the evening tailcoat; and the shawl lapel, reminiscent of a smoking jacket. Both can be found in single- or double-breasted form. The notched lapel, while immensely popular in the United States, is a modern innovation, and is not universally considered correct. The traditional single-breasted jacket can have one button (most traditional) or two buttons (less traditional yet still acceptable to some), but ''never'' three. Because black often shows a greenish tinge in artificial light, dinner jackets in Midnight Blue were introduced by the Prince Of Wales . They are occasionally seen as an alternative to black. White dinner jackets are only worn in warm climates, and in the summer in some temperate countries. Not only are the British Isles not considered warm enough for white dinner jackets to be acceptable, but the United Kingdom frowns upon their use, even in warmer climates. In the United States and Canada white dinner jackets (as with most of white summer clothing, like all-white loafers, all-white seersucker, etc.) may be worn from only from Memorial Day through to Labor Day . It is normally considered very bad form to remove the jacket at any time during a function; but when temperatures and humidity make this essential to health, the highest Rank ing male present, for instance a member of a Royal Family or the Guest Of Honour , should take the lead by standing and demonstratively removing the jacket. Others present may then follow suit. If it is known in advance that very high temperatures are expected, then Red Sea Rig may be specified on the invitations, although this mode of dress is somewhat esoteric in civilian circles and tends to be confined to certain small social communities. Waistcoat/cummerbund and trousers It is common to wear either a black waistcoat (vest) or Cummerbund (not both) with a single-breasted dinner jacket. Waistcoats should be low-cut, and are often made in the same material as the lapels of the jacket. It was once common to see them in the same material as the rest of the suit, however. Cummerbunds are worn with the pleats facing up. White waistcoats, as worn with white tie, used to be said to be an alternative to the black waistcoat, but are almost never seen. Trousers (pants) worn with a dinner jacket, being Semi-formal , should not have turn-ups (cuffs) or belt loops. It is usual to wear them with braces (suspenders). There is some debate to the appropriateness and formality of pleats versus none. The silk braid or ribbon down the edge of the trouser legs is always confined to one stripe, two being reserved for white tie. Shirt and tie A white cotton or linen shirt is conventional, though shirts in off-white or in silk can sometimes be seen. The shirt fronts are usually Cotton Marcella (as in white tie) or Pleat ed. Prior to the Second World War , stiff shirts and separate wing collars were usual. Nowadays, semi-stiff and non-detachable wing collars have become popular, although in the United Kingdom a classic collar (as worn with a Lounge Suit ) is sometimes preferred. The shirt is usually fastened with Shirt Stud s, and the cuffs with matching cufflinks. In lieu of studs, it has become more common to wear a soft dress shirt with a concealed button Placket ("Fly front"). The shirt may have a placket or have a French front (no separate placket), and either style can take buttons, studs, or have a fly front. Soft dress shirts have French Cuff s, while stiff shirts (as are still worn with white tie) have single cuffs. Bow ties are usually made of silk Barathea or satin. It is considered poor form to wear a pre-tied bow tie, particularly when the hook and buckle are in plain view. However, for most 'black tie' occasions, pre-tied ties are becoming increasingly common, with the former stigma attached to them decreasing in certain circles. In America hand-tied models nearly vanished in the 1980s. By the 1990s, hand-tied models became so rare it was unusual to find a new one for sale, even in a tuxedo shop. Americans of the 2000's generally give no particular stigma to either version, and would need to refer to instructions to tie one by hand. Footwear The most traditional formal shoes are patent-leather opera pumps (also known as court shoes) with a ribbed silk bow, as is worn with white tie. These are uncommon today. A popular alternative is the formal black leather lace-up Oxford Shoe , often in Patent Leather , but without a toe cap or any decorative brogueing. Shoes with open lacing (Derbies in British English and bluchers in the United States) are considered too informal to wear with evening dress. An exceedingly rare alternative is the black button boot. Hosiery should be black knee-high ribbed silk socks. Accessories A white handkerchief (cotton, linen or silk) may be worn in the breast pocket of the dinner jacket, and/or a boutonniere (a flower, usually white) in the buttonhole. In cold weather a dark blue or black overcoat, black gloves, and a white silk scarf may be worn for traveling. There is no standard headgear for black tie, but if an overcoat is worn a hat such as a black Homburg or Trilby may be worn, and in summer a straw boater is considered acceptable. Top hats are only worn with White Tie or Morning Dress . Wristwatches should be thin and elegant. As an alternative, a pocketwatch may be hung from the vest. In the past few decades it has become acceptable to wear Orders and Decorations with a dinner jacket at formal state events. These awards may consist of miniature medals, neck badges, breast stars, and/or sashes. The governing regulations for wear of these awards vary from country to country. APPROPRIATE OCCASIONS Black tie is worn at many private and public dinners, dances, and parties, making a comprehensive list difficult because its use varies widely from region to region. At the most formal end it has taken over from White Tie at many occasions where the latter would formerly have been worn, e.g. by Orchestra Conductor s. At the most formal events Court Dress is worn. Black tie is almost always worn in the evening only, that is after 6pm. One notable exception is that observed by the Rugby Club of Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge , whose members are required to don black tie at midday in preparation for their annual dinner. The daytime equivalent of black tie, the Stroller , can be worn for Semi-formal events during the daylight hours. BLACK TIE IN PUBLIC PERCEPTION
CORRESPONDING FORMS OF DRESS Mess dress In dining out formally, the Armed Forces Officer and Non-commissioned Officer normally wears a Mess Uniform equivalent to the civilian black tie and evening dress. Stylistically, the mess uniform varies according to the wearer's regiment or corps, but usually comprises a short Eton-style coat reaching to the waist. Some include white shirts, black bow ties, and low-cut waistcoats, while others feature high collars that fasten around the neck and corresponding high-gorge waistcoats. Usually, mess uniforms are brightly-coloured (in the British Army scarlet is most common) and ornamented with gold and lace and gilt buttons, all corresponding to the colours of the regiment or corps of the wearer. and Prince Charlie jacket.]] In the Royal Navy there is a distinction between "mess dress", which is worn at white tie events, and "mess undress", which is worn at black tie events. Both are worn with a black bow tie, however mess dress is worn with a white waistcoat instead of the usual colour, and may be worn with a stiff shirt and wing collar. The stiff shirt and wing collar were abolished for mess undress in the 1960s , and were made optional for mess dress in the 1990s . Red Sea rig In tropical areas, primarily in Western diplomatic and expatriate communities around the Red Sea the jacket is sometimes omitted and a red Cummerbund substituted. This form of black tie is known as Red Sea Rig . Scottish Highland dress Scottish Highland dress is often worn to black- and white tie occasions, especially at Scottish reels and Céilidh s; the black tie version is more common, even at white tie occasions. Traditionally, black tie Scots Highland dress comprises:
Traditional black tie Lowland dress comprises: black tie variant of the normal black tie, with Trews worn with a normal dinner jacket or a Prince Charlie jacket; trews are often worn in summer and warm climes. The white tie equivalent is a white bow tie or a lace Jabot over a collarless shirt. Regulation Doublets, Prince Charlie, Montrose, Sheriffmuir, and Argyll jackest are suitable. SEE ALSO EXTERNAL LINKS |
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