| Artificial Hair Integrations |
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Artificial hair integrations are used by many people around the world to add length, fullness, or color to one's own natural hair. Reasons for using integrations vary from medical to pure vanity. The use of integrations is widespread over all races and genders. TYPES OF ARTIFICIAL HAIR Hair extensions are made from human hair, synthetic hair, or a blend of the two. Synthetic fibers include Kanekalon and Toyokalon. Synthetic hair is less expensive than human hair, and is available in a wide array of colors and textures, from natural to over-the-top. Bulk hair This refers to hair which is not attached to a weft track. This can be human or synthetic; however, synthetic will tend to be in double lengths with a fold at the top. Bulk hair is frequently used in braiding with extensions, as well as with specialized bonding methods. Wefts Most integrations are sold in the form of a weft, often incorrectly called 'tracks'. There is stitching at the top of the weft, holding the hair together, and from there the hair hangs loose. The hair attached to the weft can be human or synthetic hair of any texture, and most any color. Color and Texture Color Manufacturers of artificial hair use a standard scale to classify the hair by color. The lower the number on the package, generally, the darker the color. 0 usually denotes darkest black. Texture Textures of artificial hair vary from bone-straight to super-curly. The exact names of curl patterns vary by brand, and the possibilities of curl patterns with synthetic hair are endless, but some examples of packaged textures include:
METHODS OF INTEGRATION The misnomer of 'tracks' comes from the common, long-lasting method of integrating wefts, known as the 'track and sew' method. The 'tracks' are usually cornrows, braided in the direction of how the hair will fall. Toward the face or away, with or without a part, the tracks build the foundation of how the end result will look. The wefts are then sewn onto the braids, usually with a specially made, blunt-ended needle. The needle can be curved or straight. There are many different colors of specially-made thread to choose from, depending on what color of hair you will be integrating. Darker hair lends to darker thread. It should also be noted that when the hair is braided at a high level of tension, the client is at risk for Traction Alopecia . Wefts may also be bonded directly to the clients hair using special bonding glue. Care must be taken not to bond the wefts directly to the scalp, as it can cause sensitivities in some clients. A patch test is frequently recommended, as per manufacturer's directions(MFD). Infrequently, wefts may be clipped in, with specially made clips sewn to the wefts themselves. This makes for a more temporary style, and is easily removed. Clipped-in wefts may add temporary color, length or fullness perhaps for a single event, such as a prom or wedding. Bulk hair can also be bonded to the hair, using many different methods: from clips to adhesive. SHAMPOOING AND STYLING OF INTEGRATIONS Shampooing of artificial hair integrations can be as easy as shampooing real hair, with some considerations. For instance, many manufacturers suggest using a mild shampoo, or even a wig shampoo. The MFD indicates what shampoo to use; the methods of brushing, combing and drying that are most advisable; and what heat setting to use when drying the hair, or if it is even advisable to do so. Most human hair extensions can be treated as real hair, albeit more gently. Since human hair extensions are usually heavily processed to achieve uniform color and texture, a mild shampoo is recommended, along with a light conditioner to reduce tangling. Cool water is recommended when shampooing, to reduce or prevent matting and excessive tangling. Having to remove snarls and tangles loosens the foundation of the integrations and further damages the hair. The same care taken when shampooing must also be used when styling artificial hair. It's often recommended that the texture of hair purchased should be the style in which the hair is worn. Using heat to straighten curly hair, or to curl straight hair, damages it. The more damage the hair sustains, the shorter the lifespan of the artificial hair. Synthetic hair, and blends of synthetic hair and human hair, should be treated extremely gently, when it comes to heat styling. Many times it is completely inadvisable. Depending on the type of synthetic fiber, heat processing is possible at an extremely low heat. However, most synthetics will melt, burn or warp when subjected to the heat of a curling iron, flat iron, or blow-dryer. Some companies do manufacture more resistant, human-like hair that can be heat processed. REMOVAL METHODS Sewn-in integrations must be removed by cutting the thread that attaches it to the cornrow. Care must be taken to snip only the thread, and not the client's hair. Care must also be taken not to leave the wefts sewn in for so long as to cause the hair to mat around the thread. Bonded integrations are removable based upon the method of bonding. Bonded wefts can be removed with special bonding-glue removers, allowing the remover to penetrate and break down the latex in the glue. Usually these removers have a high content of oil, dissolving adhesive, so a less-expensive alternative can be baby oil. Some bonded integrations can be shampooed out, depending on the strength of the adhesive, though it's less common, being that the integrations don't last very long. Bulk hair that has been bonded with clips or beads of adhesive should generally be removed by the same technician that attached them, or someone similarly trained. Simply 'pulling out' bonded integrations can result in damage to the underlying natural hair, even Alopecia . SOURCES Milady's Standard Cosmetology by Arlene Alpert, Milady Publishing Company - 2002 - 750 pages EXTERNAL LINKS
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