is the highest
Mountain within
Grand Teton National Park , and the second highest in the U.S. state of
Wyoming . The origin of the name is controversial. The most common explanation is that "Grand Teton" means "large
Teat " in French, named by either
French-Canadian or
Iroquois members of an expedition led by
Donald McKenzie of the
Northwest Company .
2However, other historians disagree, and claim that the mountain was named after the
Teton Sioux tribe of
Native American s.
3
There is a controversy over who made the first ascent of Grand Teton. . When William O. Owen climbed the true summit, he found no trace of prior human passage. Therefore, The Enclosure was probably first climbed by Native Americans, and the true summit was first climbed by William Owen.
4
Grand Teton can be climbed with minimal gear via the Owen-Spalding route (5.5). However, it is highly exposed and experience is recommended. The Owen-Spalding route is named after the climbers who made the first claimed ascent: William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Peterson and John Shive. There is some debate as to which person made the first ascent; however most agree this group was the first. Their route begins at the Upper Saddle which is reached by walking from Lupine Meadows Trailhead, up
Garnet Canyon , to the Lower Saddle.
Another famous route up the mountain is the
Exum Ridge route (5.6), a 13-pitch exposed route first climbed by
Glen Exum , co-founder of Exum Mountain Guides. This route, too, can be found on the southern face of the mountain. The Owen-Spalding and Exum Ridge routes can be climbed from the base of the mountain at Lupine Meadows in one long day but the average person takes two days (a
Permit is required for an overnight stay in the backcountry). Routes up the northern face are more difficult but famous in the climbing world.
The Grand Teton can also be
Skied in the winter. The first descent on skis was made by Bill Briggs in the spring of 1971; a route on the Owen-Spalding is now named in his honor.
