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THE LANDS OF CORSEHILL Godfrey de Ross was an early holder of the castle and lands of Corsehill, moving his seat here from the castle at Boarland (also 'Borland') or Dunlop hill. The De Ross family are now represented by the Earls Of Glasgow . Andrew Cuninghame, second son of Alexander Cunningham, 4th Earl of Glencairn, was the first of the House of Corsehill in 1532. He was a great supporter of the reform movement and had his lands forfeited, later returned. He died in 1545. Cuthbert Cuninghame inherited and married Maud Cuninghame of Aiket Castle. He had two sons, Alexander and Patrick, the latter being involved in the murder of Hugh, Earl Of Eglinton . Patrick was murdered in revenge by the Mongomeries. Alexander Cuninghame inherited and married Marion Porterfield of Duchal. Alexander Cuninghame of Corsehill was given the dignity of a Baronet in 1672. Sir David Cuninghame is the last of the family to be recorded as dwelling at Corsehill Castle (Pont 1876). In 1820 the lands included Bonshaw, High and Low Chapelton, Lainshaw (including Macbeth-hill (Magbie Hill?), Kirkwood, Sandielands, Bankend, Gallowayford, and Corsehill. In 1832 Sir Thomas Montgomerie-Cuninghame of Corsehill and Kirton-holme (near Lanark ) was the eighth baronet. The Montgomery-Cuninghame Of Corsehill Baronets are still extant, with John Montgomery-Cuninghame Of Corsehill and Kirton-holme, 12th. Baronet now representing the family. Corsehill and Ravenscraig Castles Some considerable confusion exists about the sites and naming of these castles in Stewarton. The name 'Ravenscraig' has probably arisen from 'Reuincraig' which is itself derived from 'Ruin Crag', i.e. rock / stone ruins, so it isn't so much a name as a description. We know from historical records about Godfrey de Ross and his family of Corsehill Castle, they were Lords of Liddesdale in the Borders and later on the Cunninghame s became the holders. Corsehill (also Crosshill) castle is said to have been on the east side of the Corsehill Burn and only a few remains were said to exist to show its site, however the 1860 OS indicates no ruins of any description. StevenSteven, Rev. Charles Bannatyne (Revised 1842). Parish of Stewarton. Presbytery of Irvine, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr sttaes that William Dean held the feu for the area of Templehouse, now more commonly called 'Darlington'. The 1860 OS map does record the site of Templehouse which had a small fortalice associated with it. Its site was at Darlington, the village which lay just beyond Stewarton on the Kingsford road before the East Burn. This area continued to be called Templehouses for many years after the stones were removed by local people for building purposes. Corsehill Castle is shown in one old print of 1691 by Gross as Corsehill House and substantial remains existed until the railway was constructed and most of the ruins were used to build the embankment. The course of the burn was partly altered at this time. Armstrong's 1775 map clearly shows Corsehill as being on the east bank of the Corsehill Burn. The single tower that remains today (2006) of Ravenscraig / Corsehill was repaired to stabilise it and this gives it its unexpected appearance. The 1779 estate map of Lainshaw shows Corsehill as a relatively small property on the east bank of the Corsehill Burn, reached by a road branching off at Cocklebie, running across the top of what is now the Cunninghame-Watt Park and turning uphill to reach the house. An avenue of trees ran down to the town, however this was interrupted by some of the Cocklebie lands which were not planted up, although this may be a plan showing the remodelling of the estate still in progress. The ruined castle is shown as just the tower and is otherwise un-named. The area is called the Corsehill lands. The fine old sandstone bridge which carried the road up to Corsehil was demolished in the early 2000s. A local tradition was that the iron 'jougs' on it were for imprisoning witches, although it may be that these were linked to the Barony Court functions of the old Corsehill Barony (Brown 2006). Ravenscraig and Corsehill Castles were separate entities, and a vague memory of Templehouse and its fortalice at Darlington on the lands of Corsehill farm, may have caused some extra confusion as in the King’s Kitchen tale of the location of the Baronial residence. An area opposite the site of Templehouses was known as 'The Castle'Milligan, Susan. Old Stewarton, Dunlop and Lugton. Pub. Ochiltree. ISBN 1-84033-143-7. P. 8.. and this may reflect the existence of the castle or fortalice here (Hewitt 2006). An old road also crossed the river here and ran up to Robertland Castle and Nether Robertland (Lainshaw 1779). Many references can be found to Corsehill in old records, none for 'Ravenscraig', but several for 'Reuincraig', although as stated, this is very unlikely to be anything more than a description of a ruin that was also probably called 'Corsehill', 'ruined Corsehill', then 'reuinedcraig' and finally 'ravenscraig'. Archibald AdamsonAdamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. Kilmarnock. P. 156. in his 'Rambles Round Kilmarnock' of 1875 only records three castles, these being Robertland, Auchenharvie and Corsehill. He makes no mention of the name Ravenscraig, calling the site he visited Corsehill. Aitken only marks Crosshill Castle in 1829 on the west side of the Corsehill Burn. The first OS maps show only the existing castle site. To sum up, the map in Pont's 'Cuninghame' of 1604-8 shows two buildings, "Reuincraige" and "Corshill", at approximately NS 417 467 and NS 422 465 respectively, and DobieDobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. comments that the two have often been confused, but that "Reuincraig" stood on the W of the Corsehill Burn and "Corsehill Mansion" on its E. "Reuincraig", he says, was so modernised about 1840 that it was difficult to realise that it had been ruined in 1608, while the ruins of "Corsehill" were removed about the beginning of the 19th century and only foundations could be traced when he wrote. He also thought that "Reuincraig" (i.e. Ruin Craig) was not an original name. If DobieDobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. is correct, the ruins published as "Corsehill Castle" on the OS 6", must be those of "Reuincraig", both because they are standing remains, and because they are on the W bank of the burn. Macgibbon and Ross, describing "Corsehill Castle" at the end of the 19th century as a very ruinous mansion, evidently of late date and apparently of the L-plan, and ascribe it to the period 1542-1700, must be referring to "Reuincraig". Grose, in 1791, published an illustration of "Corshill House", but does not give it a close siting. As, however, he mentions that "at a small distance from this ruin are some small remains of a more ancient building belonging to the same family", he is also probably referring to "Reuincraig", the "small remains" being those of "Corsehill". (Grose 1791); (MacGibbon) and (Ross 1889). General Roy's Military Survey of Scotland (1745 - 55) marks 'Ravenscraig' as 'Old Corsehill' and also marks the 'new' Corsehill on the other side of the burn, thereby apparently confirming that they both had the same name and one replaced the other, although only 'Old Corsehill' is still in anyway visible, just the foundations of 'new' Coresehill being apparent in 2007. The same map shows buildings named 'Temple' in the area of 'Templehouse'. A tunnel is said to run from near Ravenscraig Castle down to the Annick Water just up stream of Lainshaw Castle. The tunnel was crawled through by the grandfather of a local man (Hewitt 2006). This tunnel may be related to the drainage of the nearby, flooded quarry, the Water Plantation area and other Lainshaw estate lands. King's Kitchen An old thatched cottage at the top end of Stewarton, on the road to Glasgow, had the name of "King's Kitchen Head", more recently called Braehead. It was nearly adjacent to the old baronial residence of Corsehill and was part of that barony. Further along the road is Kingsford and further along still is King's Well and the King's Stable. The story is told of a King who whilst on his progress of administering justice was given hospitality, for some long forgotten reason, at this cottage. The wife of the house begged the King for the life of her husband who was one of those to be tried by the King. The others were hanged, but the King dismissed the husband with the admonition "''to be a better bairn."''Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow.. CORSEHILL CASTLE AND KING MALCOLM CANMORE This is a well known local story and one version given by Robert Cunninghame in 1740 in his manuscript, entitled ''the Right Honorable the Earl of Glencairn's family'', is that MacBeth murders his cousin, King Duncan I. The king's son, Malcolm Canmore (big head in Gaelic) tries to reach temporary safe refuge in his castle of Corsehill (also Crosshill). MacBeth's men were almost upon Malcolm when he sees a peasant, Friskin (or Friskine), turning hay in a barn (or pasture)nearby. Friskin hides Malcolm who then escapes to England with Friskin as a retainer. King Harthacanute of England and Norway gave them protection. When Harthacanute died his successor King Edward The Confessor gave Malcolm an army which permitted him to conquer Scotland and kill King MacBeth. The grateful King Malcolm III (1031 to 1093) gave Friskine the thanedom or Baillery of Cunninghame and the family took this name, together with the motto of 'Over fork over' which they retain to this day (Robertson 1908). It is also said that the Cunninghames were 'Masters of the king's horses' and that they took their motto from this position in the 'punning way' which is typical of the armorial bearings and mottos of many an aristocratic family. In another version of the story, it is stated by Frederick van Bassen (Douglas 1764) who was a Norwegian historian, that the saviour of Malcolm was actually a Malcolm, son of Friskin, however in other respects the story is the same. This story does not fit with the historical record, however it is of ancient origin and a grain of truth must in some way relate it to real events. MURDER AT THE ANNICK FORD The Baillieship of Cunninghame had long been in the hands of the Cunninghames, Earls of Glencairn, however at around the date of 1448 the crown conferred the Bailieship on the head of the House of Montgomerie (de Mon'Gubri), Earls of Eglinton. This act inevitably caused resentment and resulted in a bloody feud that ran on for centuries. At one point Kerelaw Castle was burned and the Earl of Glencairn retaliated by burning Eglinton Castle although the Earl of Eglinton had escaped to Ardrossan Castle, a formidable fortress until comparatively recent times when Oliver Cromwell had much of its stonework removed and shipped to Ayr to build his new fort. Edward Cuninghame of Auchenharvie was slain in 1526 and Archibald Cuninghame of Waterstoun in 1528 (Robertson 1891). In April 1586, Hugh, 4th. Earl of Eglinton was travelling to Stirling to join the court having been commanded to attend by the King, accompanied only by a few domestic servants. He stopped at Lainshaw Castle to dine with his close relative, a Montgomerie who was Lord of Lainshaw and who's Lady was a Margaret Cunninghame of Aiket Castle, with sisters married to John Cunninghame of Corsehill and David Cunninghame Of Robertland .Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. It seems that a plot to kill the Earl as an act of revenge had been organised and the Lady, or some say a servant girl who was also a Cunninghame,Robertson, William (1889). ''"Historical Tales of Ayrshire".'' Pub. Glasgow & London. climbed to the battlements after the meal to hang out a white table napkin and thereby spring the plot. Thirty Cunninghames attacked the Earl at the ford and cut his servants to pieces with swords and other weapons, the Earl himself being finally dispatched with a single shot from the pistol of John Cuninghame of Clonbeith Castle . His horse carried his dead body along the side of the river, still known as the 'Weeping', 'Mourning' or 'Widows' path. Kerr, with local knowledge, states that the site of the crime was recently (1936) built over by a factory, so the site of the ford in question may not have been at the entrance to the Lainshaw Estate at David Dale Avenue, but at the Kirk Ford instead. The murdered Earl was eventually taken to Lainshaw Castle, but in the meantime a wave of bloody revenge swept over Cunninghame and elsewhere. Cunninghame friends, relatives and adherents were killed without restraint. The Earl of Glencairn showed his lack of involvement by taking no action against the Montgomeries and by leaving his kinsmen to the full weight of the law. Aiket was killed near his home; Robertland and Corsehill escaped to Denmark. Clonbeith was traced to a house in Hamilton and hacked to pieces by John Pollock of that Ilk. Clonbeith had hid within a chimneyPaterson, James (1863-66). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. V. - III - Cunninghame. J. Stillie. Edinburgh.. Both Robertland and Corsehill were pardoned on the insistence of Queen Anne of Denmark upon her marriage to King James VI of Scotland, despite his earlier vow to bring them to justice. Robertland was employed as one of her Majesty's master stablers. The properties of the guilty parties had been confiscated and given to the Montgomeries, however the estates were eventually returned in ruinous condition. Lady Margaret Montgomerie was said to have fled to Ireland, however it seems that she remained close by, living with an estate tenant, one Robert Barr and family at Pearce Bank farm, now High Peacockbank. She was eventually permitted to return to her husband and home, however she never again left the grounds of Lainshaw Castle and she avoided any contact with the Montgomerie family for the remainder of her days. William Robertson relates a very different tale, stating that Cunninghame of Robertland spent two years developing a friendship with Hugh and despite warnings from the third Earl it eventually Hugh held Robertland in high esteem and close friendship, giving the opportunity for him to be caught off guard and cut down when attacked by sixty Cunninghame horseman. His servants had all left him to his fate. The site of this action is not recorded. Blair gives this version as well, stating that Cunninghame of Robertland was 'a very dear friend' and loved Earl Hugh 'as his own bedfellow'. Robertson (1820) gives yet another, so called 'traditional' version, in which Cunninghame of Clonbeith is stated as being at best an accessory, although he is still caught and killed in Hamilton. Here the Earl is on his way to a visit to Robertland Castle, but stops first for a meal at Lainshaw. The Laird of Robertland tries to dissuade him from continuing his journey, but to no avail and on his way back from Robertland he is met and murdered by Cunninghame of Aiket at a place called the Windy-path in Stewarton. He was shot and although dying he was able to stay in the saddle until he reached the Annick Ford where he fell from his horse and expired immediately. The Windy-path has been called the Mourning-path since that day. The date of this event is given as 12-05-1589, a date that does not fit with the 1586 date of the first version given. StevenSteven, Rev. Charles Bannatyne (Revised 1842). Parish of Stewarton. Presbytery Of Irvine, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr states that "''The ruins, nearly levelled by the hand of time, of the Castle of Robertland formerly stronghold of the Cuninghames, Baronets of Robertland, are situated behind the modern mansion of Alexander Kerr, esq. of Robertland. this stronghold, it is say, was destroyed by fire in a feud between the Montgomeries of Eglinton and the Cuninghames; in revenge for which, one of the Cuninghames shot the chief of the Eglintons, while riding home, near to Bridgend, at the east end of the town of Stewarton, where a path is still shown, called the " Weeping Path," along which he rode,until he came to the ford of the Annock, at Bridgend, where he fell dead off his horse. This took place on the 12th April 1586. in the person of Hugh, forth Earl of Eglinton.''" MacGachen (1844) gives a confused version in the rare collection of prose and verse named the 'Ayrshire Wreath'. The action takes place at the 'Bridge of Annock', erroneously located over the Carmel Burn! The Earl's manservant is named as Archie Mucledrouth and Cunningham of Aiket is stated as having fired the fatal shot and as having been hunted down and 'cut to pieces' in Hamilton. Many of the Earl's retainers are said to have been killed, the 'steam' running red with their blood, giving a fisherman, a maiden and some children a nasty shock. Otherwise the story is much the same as Robertson (1889) version. THE LANDS OF LAINSHAW As the original seat of the Stuarts or Stewarts it was considered of much value and was bestowed by the Scottish Kings only as a special mark of favour. Mary Queen of Scots changed the spelling to 'Stuart' during here time in France to ensure that the french pronounced the name correctly. James, High Steward Of Scotland inherited Stewarton in 1283. Robert III granted it to Archibald The Grim , Earl Of Douglas and then took it back to bestow as a dowry on Elizabeth, the Earl's daughter, when she married John Stewart, Earl Of Buchan . The lands reverted to the crown many times. Queen Mary presented the lands to Mary Livingstone, one of the famous 'four Marys', upon her marriage to John Sempill, son of Lord Sempill in 1565. John Knox referred to them as "''John the Dancer and Marie the Lusty"''Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow.. The Montgomeries obtained the lands shortly after. road.]] One of the earliest references to Lainshaw, Langshaw or LangschawMillar, A. H. (1885). The Castles & Mansions of Ayrshire. Reprinted The Grimsay Press. ISBN 1-84530-019-x. P. 108 is the grant of land to Alexander Home of Holme by King James in 1450. Castleton, Gallowberry, Whitelee, Crennachbrare, Robertland and Magbiehill (Magby Hill in 1775) were also included in the grant. Thomas Home inherited, but he died without issue and it passed to the Eglinton family, namely Neil or Nigel Montgomerie of Langshaw who was the second son of the first Earl of Eglinton. He was killed at Irvine in 1547 through the feud with the Mowats of Busbie and Lord Boyd. His son, John, married Margaret,daughter of Lord Boyd. John Montgomerie died without issue and his brother Neil became the third Laird. When the 9th Laird, James,died in 1767 his eldest sister, Elizabeth inherited. She had married Alexander Montgomerie-Cuninghame of Kirktonholme, son of Sir David Cuninghame of Corsehill. Her second husband was J.Beaumont Esq.(Paterson). The 10th Laird was their son, Sir Walter Montgomerie-Cuninghame, who lost a fortune as result of the American War of Independence. William Cunninghame of Bridgehouse and (afterwards Lainshaw), the 'Tobacco Lord', had made a fortune in America between 1748 and 1762. In 1776 'Linshaw' is shown on road map as occupied by Bowman EsqTaylor, G. and Skinner, A. (1776) 'Survey and maps of the roads of North Britain or Scotland'. In 1779 he leased Lainshaw and proceeded to improve the Estate under an agreement whereby the Montgomeries could reclaim the estate only if they could reimburse William for the cost of his improvements. They were never able to do so. William's son, William Cunninghame the Younger inherited the estate in 1799 but did not take up residence until 1804. During his time the house was remodelled extensively. He was a religious eccentric, which led to various court actions and his publishing a wide range of eccentric books, including one against swearing. He never marriedMillar, A. H. (1885). The Castles & Mansions of Ayrshire. Reprinted The Grimsay Press. ISBN 1-84530-019-x. P. 78, having heard his childhood sweetheart utter unacceptably bad language (Milligan & Barclay). On his death in 1849, the estate passed to his younger half brother, John, who in turn was succeeded in 1864Paterson, James (1863-66). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. V. - III - Cunninghame. J. Stillie. Edinburgh. by his son William, a Captain in the 79th Highlanders (Jamieson) and married to Louisa Ormond. He had four sons and two daughters. He held the Crimea Medal, with clasps for Alma, Balaclava and Sebastopool, together with a Turkish Medal. The estate map of 1779 shows a band of woodland running around the estate curtilage. This strip had a carriage-way running through its middle and this links with the Ha-ha at the Chalybeate spring field. Wide wooden bridges with stone abutments close to the Annick Bridge in Stewarton and close to the walled gardens allowed a complete circuit of the estate curtilage to be made. Only the abutments of these bridges remain. Near the main entrance is marked a building or buildings called 'Castle-salt', the reason for the name is not known. It could be that the name 'salt' is a corruption of another word, such as 'soiled' or 'soil', as in the 'night soil', i.e, the midden where the night soil was placed before being taken away for use as fertilizer. In the Laigh Kirk graveyard there is a memorial to Robert Cunningham, erected by James Cunningham of Castle-Salt in 1827. The land around Lainshaw Primary school was known as 'Picken's Park' and its trees were felled circa 1950, the trees being taken to Bickethall Farm for sawing, etc. Picken was a common local name at the time. Robertson records in 1820 that fields had been drained at considerable expense by filling ditches with stones. In 1779 the estate farms included Gilmill, Kirkmuir, Righead, Parkside, Irvinehill, the Kilbryde Farms, Gouknest, Magbie-hill, Gaimes-hill, Bankend of Bollingshaw, Sandyland of Bollingshaw, Canaan and Clerkland. The rental income from the estate was £1628 per year, a considerable sum (Lainshaw 1779). James Kerr was the 'Baron Officer' at Lainshaw until his death on the 4th July 1880. His wife was Barbara Barclay and they were buried at the Laigh Kirk. James Boswell of Auchinleck House, the famous biographer and friend of Dr. Samuel Johnson was married to his cousin Margaret Montgomerie in Lainshaw Castle. James Forrest of Mid Lambroughton recorded the rare Bird's Nest Orchids and the Lesser Wintergreen plants as growing in the estate woodlands in the 1930s. Lainshaw Cycle and pedestrian path Gallery 2007 Craighead Law Hill This Lea or Law hill, 687ft. high, in the Lugton area of Dunlop Parish is supposed to be a 'moot' or trial hill. The arrangement of stones on its summit does not appear to be accidental and a grass covered cairn is very noticeable. A farmer from East Halket (pronounced 'whoreket') removed one of these to facilitate his ploughing. One stone on the summit has a vertical hole drilled to the depth of four feet or so, presumably to be used for ‘slot’ for a flagpole or such-like. Near Aiket Castle is another Court Hill.Bayne, John F. (1935). ''Dunlop Parish - A History of Church, Parish, and Nobility''. Pub. T.& A. Constable, Pps. 10 - 16. Halket is called Hawkhead by Thomson on his map of 1832. Halket Loch, now drained, covered about ten acres and was drained in the 1840s. It is shown on the early maps of Ayrshire. THE BATTLE OF CRAIGNAUGHT HILL This hill lies in the north-east area of the Parish of Dunlop, the Clerkland Burn running beneath and on to Dunlop House. On the slopes of Craignaught Hill was fought a singularly unusual battle between the Boyds of Kilmarnock and the Stewarts of Darnley. Sir Alan Stewart had been treacherously slain by Sir Thomas Boyd; his son Alexander Stewart, was determined to take revenge. Sir Thomas was surprised on the night of 9th. July, 1439, whilst riding past Craignaught on his way north and although outnumbered, he and his followers fought on, even taking agreed rest periods indicated by the sounding of a horn. Eventually and inevitably Sir Thomas was killed, stabbed in the back by a Stewart, and a large number of his followers were also killed. The name is given as Sir Rober Boyd in at least one version of the tale.Robertson, William (1889) ''Sir Robert Boyd of Dean castle and his last combat with Stewart of Darnley.'' in ''Historical Tales and Legends of Ayrshire.'' Pub. Hamilton, Adams & Co. P. 295 - 305. The results of this encounter led to killings and counter killings which involved a great part of the West of Scotland. Boyd's wife had previously dreamed all of that which came to pass and died of grief within days of her husband death.Robertson, William (1908). ''"Ayrshire. Its History and Historic Families".'' Vols. 2. Pub. Grimsay Press (reprint). ISBN 1-84530-026-2. P. 332. The 1860 OS marks 'Boyd's Hill' and 'Boyd's slack' (Scots for a narrow pass) Local History Dictionary to the north of Craignaught on the old lane to Grange Farm, now named South Grange. Boyd's Hill has been undamaged (2007) by the quarrying and domestic waste disposal operations and the Boyd's slack is also clearly identifiable. Craignaught Gallery 2007 Prior to 1549 Hapland was part of the estate of Dunlop. David Dunlop exchanged or 'excambied' Hapland for the lands of Borland and in 1612 Patrick Cunninghame sold these lands to Gabriel Porterfield, son of Alexander Porterfield of that Ilk. Gabriel Porterfield of Porterfield in 1618 married Mariot Crawfurd and inherited the lands of Gills, Lothrihill, the Templeland and Maynes (Mains) of Hapland, including the mansion house. Gabriel Porterfield also took possession of Dunlop Hill, Wattirland (Waterland) and Halketh, with the loch (now drained). Dobie relates that ''On 31st May, 1638, Gabriel Porterfield purchased from Neil Ryburn of that Ilk the 13s 4d. land of old extent of Ryburn, commonly called Temple-Ryburn. The estate of Hapland consisted of Brokwelmure (Brockwellmuir), Dunlophill-Montgomerie and Ryburn; later part of Lainshaw was purchased as well.''Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. The Laird of Hapland was the ruling elder in the Parish of Dunlop in 1649 and was a captain in the Scots army when Cromwell was in Scotland, for which his lands were sequestrated. The last of the male line died when he fell off his horse when returning from Stewarton about 1765 or 1770. Lillias Porterfield married William Somerville of Kennox. Their youngest child, a daughter, married Colonel McAlester, Laird of Loup, in Kintyre . A descendent built Chapelton House near Stewarton. Hapland is near Dunlop . In 1820 the estate was of 200 acres and the proprietor was Lieutenant-General Alexander Trotter. The old mansion house was demolished around 1876 as it was not in keeping with the modern age.Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. A new steading was built at the site, possibly the 'Newhouse' marked on the OS maps. Some of the old tree wind-breaks and policies of the estate can still be made out. It seems likely that Temple-Ryburn had it's name changed to Hapland at around this time as the OS of 1858 shows Ryburn in the same position as later maps (1897, etc.) show Hapland. THE THURGATSTANE OR OGRESTANE The Thurgartstone is just outside of Dunlop on the Lugton Road in the valley of the Black Burn. It is in a sheltered spot, with ample running water and well hidden from immediate view. In the middle of a field near the Chapel Crags is the Thurgatstane or Ogrestane, also known as the Thorgatstane, Field Spirit Stane, T'Ogra Stane, Thugart Stane, Ogirtstane, Ogart stane, Horgar Stane, Fiend's Stane or Thougritstane. It is a glacial erratic stone, composed of blue augitic Porphyrite and is quite unlike the 'native' stone of the district, weighing about 25 tons and measuring about twelve feet by eight feet as measured above groundBayne, John F. (1935). ''Dunlop Parish - A History of Church, Parish, and Nobility''. Pub. T.& A. Constable, Pps. 10 - 16.. It is set near the site of the pre-reformation St.Mary's Chapel and has long been associated with pagan ritual practices. Few places have so many different names attached to them. One explanation is that the stone is 'Thor's Great Stone', another is that is "''Thou Great Stone''" or just '"''grit stane''"Paterson, James (1863-66). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. V. - III - Cunninghame. J. Stillie. Edinburgh., whilst 'The Stone of the Ogre' may reflect some forgotten legend of how the stone came to be in this position. Some names may be spelling errors perpetuated by or from Ordnance Survey and other maps. Another explanation of the name is that it is derived from Tagairtstane, meaning the priest's stone. This 'Druidical' stone may have been a 'rocking Or Logan' stone at one time, but it is now firmly set in the 'rubbish' and soil. It is recorded that even as late as "''the time of Popery''" the devotees of that religion, in doing penance, used to crawl on their knees round this stone and cry, ''O thou grit stane'' from a belief that the Deity was in a peculiar manner present at that hallowed relic MacIntosh, John (1894). ''Ayrshire Nights Entertainments: A Descriptive Guide to the History, Traditions, Antiquities, etc. of the County of Ayr.'' Pub. Kilmarnock. P. 195.. Farmers from Brandleside Farm were bound to protect, by not removing it or ploughing within a set distance of the stone, presumably because of a tradition of Pagan Burials around this monument.Paterson, James (1863-66). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. V. - III - Cunninghame. J. Stillie. Edinburgh. Some recollections of May Day events being held at the site are current and the site is listed and protected by Scottish Heritage . A fine view of Dunlop or Boarland Hill, the site of Dunlop Castle once held by the De Ross family, can be seen from the stone. The Monastic Settlement The history of the monastic settlement and the chapel of Saint Mary Paterson, James (1863-66). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. V. - III - Cunninghame. J. Stillie. Edinburgh. at the Thurgartstone is a parallel example to the Chapel Hill site at Chapeltoun , where a Christian centre was established to eradicate the pagan significance of the site. Monastic cells, a chapel and a graveyard are all lost to view, constructed by the monks of Kilwinning , only the name 'St.Marys' given to the nearby 'modern' dwellings, built on the site of the chapel record past significance. Chapelhouse Farm is located beside the road nearby. The Holy Well still exists, the nearby houses pumping water up from its source. The water from the well used to run under the road and emerge in a trough surrounded by a metal fence. Only a concrete manhole indicates this trough now (2006). In 1856 the water for baptism in Dunlop Kirk was still drawn from this Holy Well.Name Book (1856). Ordnance Survey. The chapel can never have been very large and was abandoned at the time of the Reformation in Scotland led by the ex-Roman Catholic priest John Knox (1514 to 1572). The stones were robbed / mined by locals and the last remaining stones were taken away by a farmer in the 1830’s. It stood on a rock from which a beautiful stream of water gushed into a small rivulet, this originally being crossed by steps, called the ''Lady's steps'' before the Chapelhouse Bridge was built.Paterson, James (1863-66). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. V. - III - Cunninghame. J. Stillie. Edinburgh. The 1858 OS map locates the Lady's Steps near Hapland Mill on the Stewarton side of the town, crossing the Glazert . Patterson and BayneBayne, John F. (1935). ''Dunlop Parish - A History of Church, Parish, and Nobility''. Pub. T.& A. Constable, Pps. 10 - 16., both local people writing in 1866 and 1935 respectively, place the steps at Chapel Crags. The first Statistical Account of Ayrshire also places the steps at Chapel Crags.Sinclair, Sir John (1791 - 1799). ''The Statistical Account of Scotland. Ayrshire.'' It seems odd to name these steps after a chapel that is a significant distance away in another valley, so a cartographers error may explain the situation as recorded in the first OS Name Book. A field near the 'Druid Stone' is called Templecroft and the first Celtic ‘ Culdee ’ church may have been situated here, later replaced by the Roman Catholic Chapel. Ironically the pagan or Druidical stone is still there, but no sign of the Christian sites are visible, apart from the inconspicuous holy well in the field bordered by the burn. DUNLOP CHURCH AND THE PICTURE HOUSE The church was probably built in around 1766, however by 1834 it was dilapidated and demolition followed, resulting in the construction of the Dunlop parish church that we see today. Parts of the original building are in use as tomb stones. Barbara Gilmour, famous for introducing the production of Dunlop Cheese, is buried in the churchyard. Major McAlester of Kennox, then a heritor, obtained the 1792 bell and Miss McAlester and Mr.Charles G. S. McAlester returned it to the Kirk Session in 1935 to honour the centenary of the present churchBayne, John F. (1935). ''Dunlop Parish - A History of Church, Parish, and Nobility''. Pub. T.& A. Constable, Pps. 10 - 16.. Hans Hamilton was the first Protestant vicar of the church. His son James was created Viscount Clandeboye and Baron Hamilton for his many services to James VI in establishing and maintaining Protestantism in Ireland . His five brothers also established estates in Ireland. A handsome mausoleum was constructed over their graves by James and this was so ornately painted and gilded in the Roman Catholic manner that it attracted the sobriquet of 'The Picture House'. It was much neglected and vandalised until in 1734 it was given some much needed repairs. The marble statues of Hans and his wife have now been removed to a place of safety for their protection (2005). Viscount Clandeboye also built and invested a school, now known as Clandeboye Hall and used by the church for events. The Rev William Gebbie was the last minister to come into the parish under the old system of patronage, in this case that of the Earl Of Eglinton . William was a fervent evangelist and the 'Dunlop Revival' shook the whole parish until the reverend was charged with heresy in the early 1860s! He remained as minister until 1883.Dunlop Ancient & Modern. An Exhibition. March 1998. Editor. Dugald Campbell. p. 6. THE CARLIN STONE OR HAG STONE AT THE COMMON CRAGS On top of the Common Crags overlooking Dunlop and the Glazert is a large procumbent boulder known on the OS map as the ‘Carlin’s Stone or Stane’. A Carl is a commoner, a husband or in a derogatory sense, a Churl or male of low birth. More commonly the name Carlin was used as a derogatory term for a woman meaning an 'old hag'. It is also said to be a corruption of the Gaelic word “Cailleach”, meaning a witch or the 'old Hag', the Goddess of Winter. This would therefore be the Witch’s or Hag's Stone, one of several in Scotland with this name. A local historian remembers the stone being called the Hag's Stone (Clement 2006). Near 'Kirkhill' outside Stewarton are several Kilbrides. Bride , Brigit or St Brigid was originally a Celtic Goddess linked with the festival of Imbolc , the eve of the first of February. She was the goddess of Spring and was associated with healing and sacred wells, therefore the antithesis of the Carlin. Carlin's Tooth is the name of a rock outcrop in the borders between Knocks Knowe and Carter FellMack, James Logan (1926). ''The Border Line.'' Pub. Oliver & Boyd. P. 215.. Three farms named 'Carlingcrags' are to be found above Darvel in East Ayshire. A Carlin Stone is situated on Whitelee Moor near Craigends farm, below Cameron's Moss. The nearby Carlin burn eventually runs into the Hareshawmuir water. LUGTON VILLAGE When the Milligan, Susan. Old Stewarton, Dunlop and Lugton. Pub. Ochiltree. ISBN 1-84033-143-7.. A lime works had existed near Lugton as far back as 1829: it is shown on Aitken's map of Cunninghgame. A modern lime works was more recently established at the top of the belt of limestone, now worked out, by R.Howie & SonsStrawhorn, John and Boyd, William (1951). The Third Statistical Account of Scotland. Ayrshire. Pub.. A small mission hall constructed from corrugated iron used to exist near the railway bridge, having been moved from the site of the old brickworks. THE DARIEN AFFAIR The Darien Company was an attempt by the Scots to set up a trading colony in America in the late 1690s, however the opposition from England and elsewhere was so great that the attempt failed with huge losses and great financial implications for the country and for individuals. Half of the whole circulating capital of Scotland was subscribed and mostly lost. In Cunninghame some examples of losses are Major James Cunninghame of Aiket (£200), Sir William Cunninghame of Cunninghamhead (£1000), Sir Archibald Mure of Thorntoun (£1000), William Watson of Tour (£150) and James Thomson of Hill in Kilmaurs (£100). THE HIGHLAND HOST To prevent the Covenanters holding 'Conventicles', King Charles II moved highland troops, the 'Highland Host' into the west-land of Ayrshire.Robertson, William (1905). ''Old Ayrshire Days''. Pub. Stephen & Pollock. Ayr. P. 299 - 300. "''They took free quarters; they robbed people on the high road; they knocked down and wounded those who complained; they stole, and wantonly destroyed, cattle; they subjected people to the torture of fire to discover to them where their money was hidden; they threatened to burn down houses if their demands were not at once complied with; besides free quarters they demanded money every day; they compelled even poor families to buy brandy and tobacco for them; they cut and wounded people from sheer devilment.''" The cost of all this amounted to £6062 12s 8d in Stewarton parish alone.Robertson, William (1905). ''Old Ayrshire Days''. Pub. Stephen & Pollock. Ayr. P. 203. MISCELLANEOUS NOTES The name Stewarton is said to derive from Walter, High Steward of Scotland to David I who lived here in the 12th. century. Robert the Steward, a direct descendent, became King Robert II (Kerr 1936). The town had 1800 inhabitants in 1820. Walter was the son of Alain who had been invited by Henry 1st. to live in England. He returned to Scotland with King David I in 1141. Robertson in 1820 refers to Macbeth-hill as being part of the Corsehill lands. The site of this hill and the reason for its name is unknown. It may be that the Law Mount, with the interest taken in it by the Scottish royal family, could have been MacBeth Hill. Magbie Hill is another suggestion for MacBeth Hill. Timothy Pont in 1604 - 08 records that so thickly was the district about Stewarton and along the banks of the Irvine populated for a space of three or four miles "''that well travelled men in divers parts of Europe (affirm) that they have seen walled cities not so well or near planted with houses so near each other as they are here, wherethrough it is so populous that, at the ringing of a bell in the night for a few hours, there have seen convene 3000 able men, well-horsed and armed."''Robertson, William (1908). Ayrshire. Its History and Historic Families. Vol.1. Pub. Dunlop & Dreenan. Kilmarnock. P. 303 Above Kirkwood near Dunlop is a property called 'Ravenslie', not far from 'Ravenscraig' castle (Robertson 1820). In 1820 David Cunninghame was the proprietor at a rental of £39 13s. 4d. Ravens are still found in the district. The 'Leddy o'Clumbeith' is a ghost story told by Dr. DuguidService, John (Editor) (1887). The Life & Recollections of Doctor Duguid of Kilwinning. Pub. Young J. Pentland. circa 1840 in the 1820s. A servant girl from the farm of Clonbeith was making her way to the Blair Tavern to keep a Tryst when she fell into a mine shaft, horse and all, and was killed. Others say that her 'lad' killed her and then jumped into the shaft after her. Her ghost haunts the fields around Auchentiber . A mill-wand was the rounded piece of wood acting as an axle with which several people would role a millstone form the quarry to the mill and to permit this the width of some early roads was set at a 'mill-wand breadth'. A new gravitational water supply was opened for Dunlop in 1896, fed from a spring at Sidehead, the old water supply having been condemned.Dunlop Ancient & Modern. An Exhibition. March 1998. Editor. Dugald Campbell. p. 6. In the 1600s Stuartoune had fairs on the first Thursday of January, the first Monday of May, and the last Wednesday of October. A weekly market on Thursdays is recorded as being not well attended.Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. In 1820 only six people were qualified to vote as freeholders in Stewarton Parish, being proprietors of Robertland (Hunter Blair), Kirkhill (Col.J.S.Barns), Kennox (McAlester), Lainshaw (Cunninghame), Lochridge (Stewart) and Corsehill (Montgomery Cunninghame). Dunlop had only two people qualified to vote by right as freeholders. The Draffen Stone used to be located in a field near the house of the same name. Due to a housing development it has been moved to a site in front of Draffen House. It is not known whether this stone is merely a 'rubbing stone' for cattle or a Menhir . It is not recorded by Historic Scotland . Braehead House in Stewarton is a rare example of a 'Bank' from the times when private houses were used, rather than purpose-built premises. The windows of the strongroom still have their iron bars in place (Watt 2006). The 'Stewarton Sickness' refers to the powerful religious revival that started in 1625 and continued to involve Stewartonians in strong religious attitudes until comparatively recent times (Kerr 1936). Lainshaw Mill, below the railway viaduct, was famous for the large Rowan Tree growing out of its chimney. The mill ceased grinding corn in the 1930s and was completely demolished in the second half of the 20th. Century after a disastrous fire, the fate of many an old mill. In the 1860 William Eaglesham was the miller, with his wife Helen Wilson. He died aged 70 and is buried in the Laigh Kirk graveyard. The Lairds of Corsehill were the Deacons Heritable of the Bonnet Court of Corsehill which regulated the activities of the Stewarton bonnet makers. David Dale was a native of Stewarton, born in 1739, son to a grocer in the town. He started life as a cowherd and went on to fame and fortune. He was brought up in a two story thatched house at the 'cross' in Stewarton (Shaw 1953). Given the strong weaving community in the town it is ironic that he set up his factory at New Lanark , amongst other places. He was very generous to good causes, giving away up to £50,000. The first Corsehill Queen is said to be King Malcolm III second wife, Queen Margaret , niece of Edward The Confessor of England. This Malcolm III, also known as Canmore, was also Lord of Corsehill (Kerr 1936). She was canonised and St.Margaret 's Chapel is the oldest surviving building at Edinburgh Castle , Highlanders however called her the 'Accursed Margaret' (Best 1999). Braikenheuch Hill, meaning the 'Bracken Crag' (Warrack 1982), about a mile and a half from Dunlop, is said to be the site of the death of one of the Cuninghames of Aiket, killed by a Montgomerie during the times of the feuds between these families. The area is now known as the 'Brechna Braes' and is situated at the 'Millennium Woodland' site near to the kirk. One of the Lady Robertlands of Robertland Castle was a practical Christian, mingling with the poor of the district, distributing alms and tending the sick. Lady Elizabeth Montgomerie's ghost is said to haunt Lainshaw Castle, wandering the corridors wearing a green dress and carrying a candle. She was implicated in the plot that resulted in the murder of the Earl of Eglinton. Dunlop Cattle are supposed to have originated here or within the parish, bred by Dunlop of that Ilk from improved stock from Holland in around 1550 to 1700 or later. The breed, also known as Cunninghame or Ayrshire Cattle are pied, white and brown, short in leg, long in the horn, straight in the back: the bulls are fiery in temper and the cows are peculiarly placid and docile. They produce milk which is very high in butterfat.Bayne, John F. (1935). ''Dunlop Parish - A History of Church, Parish, and Nobility''. Pub. T.& A. Constable, Pps. 10 - 16. It is an interesting point to note that the selective breeding of cattle was almost impossible before the enclosure of land by dykes and ditches in the 18th. Century, because prior to this the cattle were free to mix without much control from the farmer. The Gaelic, An t-sagairt, the priest (See Thurgatstane), gave rise to the Scottish Name Taggart. The Lainshaw viaduct was opened on August 3rd. 1868, but did not actually have track and trains running over it until March 1871. Sherpa Tenzing was wearing a Stewarton balaclava when he set foot on the top of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary . The 1779 Lainshaw estate map shows the Glebe meadows running down from the Laigh Church to the river and as far as the Old Stewarton Road at Kirkford. In 1797 Magbie Hill above Stewarton has a field called 'Stone Field' which may record a standing stone now long destroyed or possibly moved as the nearby farm has two large boulders in front of it. Coal pits are marked in the vicinity of Magbie Hill, possibly explaining the name, as 'mag' was a term used for poor quality coal. The nearby 'Water Plantation' was known as 'Magbie-hill Plantation'. DUNLOP CHURCH GALLERY |
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