| Chris Sharma |
Article Index for Chris |
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Information AboutChris Sharma |
| CATEGORIES ABOUT CHRIS SHARMA | |
| 1981 births | |
| sharma, chris | |
| living people | |
| american rock climbers | |
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CLIMBING HISTORY Raised in Santa Cruz, California , Chris Sharma started climbing at the age of 12, and it soon became apparent that he possessed an exceptional natural talent. At 14 he won the Sport Climbing Nationals and in the following year he climbed his first route of the grade 5.14c (''Necessary Evil''). By the age of 15 he had climbed most of the hardest routes in America and placed second in the World Cup. In 2001, Sharma completed his long-term project '' Realization '', in Ceüse , France . It is generally considered the first consensus 5.15a/9a+ to be climbed, the hardest in the world at that time. The route is also known as ''Biographie'', the name given by Jean-Christophe Lafaille, who first bolted the route in 1989. Later on, considering the route too difficult to be climbed as one pitch, Arnaud Petit bolted an intermediate belay station approximately half way from the top. In the United States, the use of "Realization" usually refers to the full route and extension of the shorter (and easier) "Biographie." There is also some controversy as to whether or not it was actually the first 5.15a to be climbed, as two other routes already held this grade at the time of ''Realization's'' first ascent. These routes were somewhat controversial, however, and were graded by their first ascensionists and generally not considered 5.15a by consensus (Chris Sharma prefers not to grade routes and did not grade ''Realization''). Sharma won the World Cup of Climbing later in 2001 but it was recalled after he tested positive for THC . In September, 2006, Sharma completed his most difficult project since ''Realization'', a Deep-water Solo beneath a 65-foot arch-shaped rock Islet called ''Es Pontas'', off the coast of Mallorca , Spain. The Crux of the route features a difficult dynamic move, leaping from one set of holds to the next while 35 feet above the water, which apparently took Sharma 50 or more attempts to successfully complete. The route tentatively holds the same name as the islet. It is not yet graded. Other famous ascents include ''The Mandala'', a boulder problem in Bishop, California, ''Witness the Fitness'' in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas, and the third ascent of a sport route in Spain called ''La Rambla (Original)'', amongst others (see below). CLIMBING STYLE Sharma is well known for his highly spiritual nature and climbing philosophy (seen to wonderful effect in a ''journal'' commissioned by Climbing Magazine in 2003). He often uses visualization and meditation techniques before attempting especially difficult routes or boulder problems, and becomes very personally invested in projects, sometimes attempting them for weeks or months before earning the ascent (see '' Realization '' and ''Es Pontas''). Sharma prefers dynamic, "acrobatic" climbing with spread-out, well defined holds rather than delicate Crimpers or cracks. He has a unique talent for using his momentum and grip strength to power through challenging moves, such as dynos and Campusy sloper sections, sometimes even skipping over difficult holds in the process. He excels at routes that require a combination of high strength, creative technique, and precise movement. Aside from his world famous . As he describes, "All the elements are there. The stone, the air when you're free-falling, the water and the fire inside." ''(Rock and Ice. 12/2006)'' Sharma is also an innovator of the tripod stance in which he uses only one foot while resting as opposed to two feet. The best example of this is the 30 minute rest on Realization he took before ascending the crux. NOTABLE ASCENTS
Movieclip of the route {Link without Title} FILMOGRAPHY Chris Sharma has also been featured in many rock climbing magazines and films, especially bigUP Production videos. The following films document the history and development of his climbing.
EXTERNAL LINKS
Known Sponsors: Petzl Prana Black Diamond Evolv |
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