| Academic Dress Of The University Of Cambridge |
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As is natural in the second oldest University in the United Kingdom , the University Of Cambridge has a long tradition of Academic Dress . WHEN ACADEMIC DRESS IS WORN Academic dress is still worn quite often in Cambridge on formal occasions. Many undergraduates in their first week at Cambridge buy (or borrow) a gown for the purpose of enrolment in the University (known as Matriculation ). It is more common to buy a gown, especially at the more traditional colleges, as the number of occasions on which it is worn quickly repays the investment; gowns are often recycled between 'generations', as new graduate students in turn need to upgrade their gowns at the start of the year. It is usually sufficient for students to buy their gowns in the first few weeks after arrival at the University. In some colleges, gowns are worn to Formal Hall (formal dinner, held almost every night in some colleges, once a term in others) and to Chapel. Various College events also demand academic dress; for example, in the Trinity College statutes, it specifies that certain senior members of College (such as the Dean) prefer students to wear a gown when addressing them in their official capacity (often when having been "deaned" for breaking the College Rules). The extent to which these rules apply vary greatly from college to college, some dispensing with them even for formal hall. Gowns are also worn, with a hood, to graduation ceremonies. There are strict rules regarding which gown and hood a graduating student should wear. The hood is rarely seen in Cambridge outside graduation ceremonies. COMPONENTS OF CAMBRIDGE ACADEMIC DRESS When wearing full academic dress, a person wears both the gown and the hood of the highest degree he or she has already received from the University of Cambridge. Anyone who does not hold a Cambridge degree (such as an undergraduate, or a graduate of another university) wears a gown according to his or her status in Cambridge, i.e, undergraduate, BA status or MA status (see below). A graduand (someone about to be presented for a degree) wears the robes of the highest status degree that they already hold. In the special case of undergraduates, who do not yet hold a degree, they wear their undergraduate gown with the hood of the degree that they are about to receive.http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/univ/degrees/dress/ Thus, for example, an undergraduate graduating to a BA degree wears an undergraduate gown and a BA hood. A holder of a BA from Cambridge graduating to a PhD wears both a BA hood and gown, whereas a graduate of another university graduating to a PhD wears a BA or MA status gown and PhD hood. The full list of degrees and their order of seniority is given in the Ordinances of the University : as a rule of thumb, Higher Doctorate s outrank the PhD, which outranks masters' degrees, which outrank bachelors' degrees. Gowns The gowns in use in Cambridge, like those generally used throughout the UK but not the U.S. , are open-fronted. The main types seen are the undergraduate gown, Bachelor Of Arts gown and Master Of Arts gown. In addition, for Scarlet Days , Doctors (either of Philosophy, or one of the more senior doctorates) wear special dress gowns, distinguished by the use of scarlet. The sleeves of the gowns of graduates may be adorned with various patterns that indicate the exact degree or degrees that they possess. Hoods Hoods are worn on the back as an indicator of academic status. These are of the notable ''Cambridge Full'' shape. The hood consists of a cape, cowl, liripipe, and tippet. The neckband of a hood is of the outer colour, with no edging of the lining material. The corners of tippets are square. The design of hoods as set by University Ordinances Chapter II is below. (Source: University of Cambridge website {Link without Title} ) Academic caps A form of a black cap known as a Mortarboard (or ''square'') may be worn or carried. Properly, it is worn outdoors and carried indoors, except by people acting in an official capacity who may continue to wear it indoors. In practice, few people wear (or even carry) a cap nowadays; caps ceased to be compulsory for undergraduates in the 1950s after a shortage but are nominally still required for graduates. With their festal gowns, Doctors wear Tudor Bonnet s, which are round and made of velvet, with gold string and tassels, except that Doctors of Divinity wear a black Bishop Andrewes Cap . ''Sub-fusc'' ''Sub-fusc'' means "of a dark/dusky colour", and refers to the clothes worn with full academic dress in Cambridge. Generally, this involves a dark suit and white shirt, collar, Bands and bow tie for men (who must also wear black socks), and a dark suit and white blouse for women. The rules for dress on graduation for women also specify that women's attire must have long sleeves and, if a skirt is worn, it must be knee-length or longer and worn with tights. In place of ''sub-fusc'', members of Her Majesty's Forces have in the past been allowed to wear their service Uniform , persons in Holy Orders their clerical dress, and National Dress has been worn, together with the appropriate gown and hood. Currently as of 2007, national dress is no longer accepted as an alternative to sub-fusc. The Proctor s have discretion to waive the part of the regulations concerning dark clothes and white tie on 'reasonable grounds'. The Cambridge form of ''sub-fusc'' is usually not as strict as that at Oxford, and gowns are often worn with less formal attire (particularly by undergraduates who are required to wear gowns to hall). However, the rules are enforced strictly at formal graduation ceremonies, and persons who are incorrectly dressed may be prevented from graduating in person and their Praelector or Presenter may be fined. ACADEMIC DRESS FOR MEMBERS OF THE UNIVERSITY Undergraduates All undergraduate gowns resemble knee-length versions of the B.A. gown, but many colleges at Cambridge have gowns that differ slightly from the main pattern. The standard gown is black, and most colleges' gowns include minor variations such as sleeve decoration. The most distinct differences are the blue colour of the undergraduate gowns of Trinity and Caius and the blue facings of Selwyn . B.A. and M.A. The two most common graduate gowns in Cambridge are the B.A. gown and the M.A. gown. Unlike in most other universities, except the University Of Oxford , no bachelor's degree save the B.A. is awarded and all undergraduates at Cambridge traditionally graduated with a B.A. degree after 3 years, although, these days, many graduates also obtain a master's degree, such as an M.Eng or M.Sci., after a further year of study, and graduate from both degrees at once. As in Oxford, B.A.s are automatically entitled to proceed to the degree of Master of Arts after a period of time (see also Master Of Arts (Oxbridge And Dublin) ). In Cambridge, this period is 6 years from the end of the first term after Matriculation provided this is at least two years from the award of the BA {Link without Title} — BAs are thus eligible for the MA at the first graduation ceremony in the 7th calendar year after matriculation. The B.A. gown is a long black stuff (cloth) gown with long bell-shaped sleeves to the wrists with the forearm seam left open from near the shoulder to around 4-3" from the wrist. The gown is gathered at the back in a yoke, and falls down to just below the knees. The B.A. hood is of black cloth, bound and half-lined in white (artificial) rabbit fur. The M.A. gown is similar to the B.A. gown, except that it has "boot" sleeves, which are long, rectangular and closed at the ends, with a crescent cut out of each sleeve-end which curves at the top (unlike the Oxford MA gown), and a horizontal arm-slit just above the elbow. It falls down to calf length (slightly longer than the BA gown) and may be made of silk. The M.A. hood is of black cloth bound and lined in white silk. Other Masters' gowns vary from subject to subject at Cambridge; for example, the Master of Engineering (MEng) and M.Sci. gowns are the standard M.A. gown but with an embroidered wheel on each sleeve, and a corresponding hood is worn. The M.Phil gown is the same as the M.Sci. gown, but instead of an embroidered wheel, it has two buttons connected by a horizontal embroidered line at the shoulder. Persons without a Cambridge degree (including those with a degree from another university) wear a "B.A. status" or "M.A. status" gown, which is identical to a B.A. or M.A. gown but with the "strings" (black ribbons attached inside the shoulder) removed. The B.A. status gown is for those aged under twenty-four while the MA gown is for those aged twenty-four or over. (The rationale is that Cambridge students would usually join the university at 18, obtain their B.A. after 3 years, at 21, and their M.A. after a further 3 years, at 24.) Doctors Doctors in Cambridge have two forms of academic dress: ''undress'' and ''full dress'' (or ''scarlet''). Scarlet is worn on formal college and university occasions, and so-called Scarlet Days (mostly Church Of England festivals such as Easter and Christmas ). The ''undress gown'' or ''black gown'' is similar to the M.A. gown (for Ph.D, Litt.D, Sc.D and in practice D.D.) or is a 'lay-type' gown similar to that worn by Queen's Counsel (LL.D., M.D., Mus.D.). Different doctorates are distinguished from each other and from the plain M.A. gown by different arrangements of lace on the sleeves, facings or flap collar. Undress gowns may be made of silk or stuff. The gown may be worn with a doctor's hood. The Ph.D. hood, the one most commonly seen, is made of black corded silk lined with scarlet cloth; the hoods of higher doctors are made of red cloth and lined with silk in the faculty colour (scarlet for letters, pink shot light blue for science, light-cherry for laws, mid-cherry for silk, dove grey for divinity). The Mus.D. hood is of cream damask lined with dark cherry satin. The ''full dress'' or ''scarlet gown'' differs for each doctorate, but uses the same material and colours as the hood. For Ph.D.s, there are two versions of the scarlet gown. The traditional version is the same as the M.A. gown (in theory, though not in practice, the silk version), with the addition of a broad red cloth stripe down each side at the front. The alternative version (authorised in 2006 [http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/reporter/2005-06/weekly/6042/27.html but commonly used without authorisation before then) uses detachable facings on an undress Ph.D. gown, which is distinguished from the M.A. gown by doctors' lace on the sleeves that is not found on the traditional festal Ph.D. gown. For the higher doctorates, such as LL.D. or Sc.D., the scarlet gown is a more impressive affair, being brightly coloured and voluminous, with open sleeves that hang long at the back, at the sleeve front, the lining is turned outwards and is fixed in position by a twisted cord and button. The linings of the sleeves and the facings are in silk of the faculty colour. Graduates of other universities may wear the academic dress of those universities on scarlet days, unless they are university officials or participating in a degree ceremony. UNIVERSITY OFFICIALS The Chancellor The Chancellor of the University wears on ceremonial occasions a black silk gown with a long train, decorated with gold lace, similar to the gown of the Lord Chancellor . Persons presenting for or conferring degrees The Vice-Chancellor or his/her deputy, when conferring degrees, and anyone who is not a praelector of a college presenting a graduand (in practice, this is limited to the professors or their deputies presenting for higher doctorates) wears a scarlet cope trimmed with white fur, as shown in the image. Proctors The Proctor s in Cambridge are formally responsible for the discipline of junior members of the university. In addition, they have various ceremonial and administrative duties, which they are, in practice, mainly occupied with. In both Oxford and Cambridge, the Proctors could formerly be seen patrolling the streets after dark with the university Constables, or ''bulldogs'', who wore top hats in Cambridge and bowler hats in Oxford. These traditions have now ceased, although the Proctors are still responsible for posting various disciplinary notices (e.g. highlighting the restriction on undergraduates' possession of motor cars) around the Colleges. Their Constables continue to wear top hats and cloaks on ceremonial occasions. The Proctors wear the academic dress of a Master of Arts, but with a distinctive Ruff at the neck. Other officials Other officials such as the Esquire Bedell or Orator wear the academic dress appropriate to their degree. EXTERNAL LINKS
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