| Worsted |
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THE YARN The long, fine staple wool (although nowadays medium and short Fibre s are also used) is "carded" and made into continuous, untwisted strands or ropes called "slivers". The slivers are blended and then combed to make the fibres lie parallel. After this, the slivers are tightly twisted ("worsted") and Spun . The essential feature of a worsted yarn is straightness of fibre. Prior to the introduction of automatic machinery there was little difficulty in attaining this straightness of fibre, as long wool was always used, and the sliver was made up by hand before combing. However, with the introduction of Richard Arkwright 's Water Frame in 1771, and the later introduction of cap and mule spinning machines, the need for perfectly prepared slivers became apparent, and many Manufactories used one or more preparatory "gill-boxes" (combing machines) before the worsting process, to ensure straightness of fibre and even distribution of the Lubricant . The term "worsted" today is applied to any yarn spun from fibres three inches in length or longer that have been carded, combed, and drawn, not just wool. Acrylic and other yarns can be called "worsted," and this is a reference to the weight of the yarn as much as the production process. THE CLOTH Worsted cloth, archaically also known as "stuff", is lightweight and has a hard, smooth texture. The Weave is usually Twill or plain. Twilled fabrics such as Whipcord , Gabardine and Serge are often made from worsted yarn. Worsted fabric made from wool has a natural recovery, meaning that it is resilient and quickly returns to its natural shape, but non-glossy worsted will shine with use or abrasion. Worsteds differs from Woollens , in that the natural crimp of the wool fibre is removed in the process of spinning the yarn. In Tropical Worsteds, this use of tightly-spun straightened wool, combined with a looser weave, permits the free flow of air through the fabric. Worsted is also used for Carpet s, Garments , Hosiery , Glove s, and Billiard Table cloth. Contrast Woolen . REFERENCES |
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