Hair consists of roughly 97% of a Protein called Keratin . Keratin is on its surface rich in negatively-charged Amino Acid s. Hair conditioners therefore often contain cationic Surfactant s, which don't wash out completely, because their Hydrophilic ends strongly bind to keratin. The Hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface.
Conditioning agents are also called Moisturizer s in some cases and usually are composed of various Oil s and Lubricant s (e.g., some Fatty Alcohol s, Panthenol , Dimethicone , etc.). They also contain Antistatic Agent s, and Sequestrant s for better function in Hard Water . Other additional chemicals are Preservative s (usually Parabens ),
Conditioners are frequently acidic, as low PH protonates the amino acids, providing the hair with positive charge. This allows better forming of hydrogen bonds between the keratin scales, giving the hair more compact structure. Citric Acid , or other organic acids, is the usual component maintaining acidity.
An easy and inexpensive way to condition one's hair and improve the health of one's scalp is to mix 2 tablespoons (30ml) of Apple Cider Vinegar or Lemon Juice (but not both) with 1 cup (250ml / 8 fl oz.) of Water and use in small amounts after shampooing. While not Foam ing, etc., the positive changes to one's hair will be apparent after the first or second wash.
There are several groups of hair conditioners, differing with composition and main functionality aspects: {Link without Title}
- , whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually contain higher proportion of Humectant s.
- , usually containing hydrolyzed protein. Their role is to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure.
- , Acidity Regulator s which maintain the conditioner's PH at about 2.5–3.5. In contact with acidic environment, the hair's somewhat scaly surface tightens up, as the Hydrogen Bond s between the Keratin molecules get strengthened.
- , modifying the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by coating it with Polymer s, as glossers
- , usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat, caused by, e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.
- , light-reflecting chemicals binding to the hair surface. Usually polymers, usually Silicone s, e.g., Dimethicone or Cyclomethicone .
- (E.F.A.'s - essential fatty acids), If you have dry hair, you need to add oil to your hair. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFA's are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contain EFA'S). EFA's can take very dry and porous hair and transform it into soft pliable hair.
Recommendations: (used sparingly)
Other differentiating can be as follows {Link without Title} :
- conditioners, heavy and thick, with high content of surfactants able to bind to the hair structure and "glue" the hair surface scales together. These are usually applied to the hair for longer time. The surfactants are based on long straight aliphatic chains similar to saturated fatty acids. Their molecules have tendency to crystallize easily, giving the conditioner higher viscosity, and they tend to form thicker layers on the hair surface.
- conditioners, thinner, containing different surfactants, adding only a little material to the hair. They are based on unsaturated chains, which are bent rather than straight. This shape makes them less prone to crystallizing, making a lighter, less viscous mixture and providing significantly thinner layer on the hair. The difference between leave-in and pack conditioners is similar to the difference between fats and oils.
- conditioners, combining some aspects of both pack and leave-in ones.
- conditioners, based on cationic Polyelectrolyte Polymer s, holding the hair in a desired shape. These have both the function and the composition similar to diluted Hair Gel s.
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