In Clothing , a is the part of a Shirt , Dress , Coat or Blouse that fastens around or frames the Neck . A collar may also be a separate or detachable accessory worn around the neck.
The Oxford English Dictionary traces ''collar'' in its modern meaning to c. 1300. Today's shirt collars descend from the Ruffle created by the Drawstring at the Neck of the Medieval Chemise , through the Elizabethan Ruff and its successors, the whisk collar and Falling Band .
Separate collars have existed along side attached collars since the mid- 16th Century , usually to allow Starch ing and other fine finishing.
- ''Band'' - a strip of fabric that fastens around the neck, Perpendicular to the body of the garment, to which a collar proper may be attached.
- ''Collar stays'' - strips of Metal , Horn , or Plastic , rounded at one end and pointed at the other, inserted into a man's shirt collar to stiffen it and prevent the points from curling up; usually inserted into the underside of the collar through small slits but sometimes permanently sewn in place.
- ''Points'' - the corners of a collar; in a buttoned-down collar, the points are fitted with Buttonhole s that attach to small buttons on the body of the shirt to hold the collar neatly in place.
- ''Spread'' - the distance between the points of a shirt collar.
- ''Stand'' - the band on a coat or shirt collar that supports the collar itself.
Collars can be categorized as:
- ''Standing or stand-up'', fitting up around the neck and not lying on the shoulders.
- ''Turnover'', standing around the neck and then folded or rolled over.
- ''Flat or falling'', lying flat on the shoulders.
Collars may also be ''stiffened'', traditionally with Starch ; modern Wash-and-wear shirt collars may be stiffened with Interfacing . Shirt collars which are not stiffened are described as ''soft''.
The shape of collars is also controlled by the shape of the Neckline to which they are attached. Most collars are fitted to a Jewel Neck , a neckline sitting at the base of the neck all around; if the garment opens down the front, the top edges may be folded back to form Lapel s and a V-shaped opening, and the Cut of the collar will be adjusted accordingly.
Names for specific styles of collars vary with the vagaries of Fashion . In the 1930s and 1940s , especially, historical styles were adapted by Fashion Designer s; thus the Victorian bertha collar, a cape-like collar fitted to a low scooping neckline, was adapted in the 1940s but generally attached to a V-neckline.
Some specific styles of collars include:
- or '''stock collar''', a very tall standing collar with the points turned up over the chin, to be worn with a Cravat .
- , a collar with a small standing band, usually buttoned, in the style worn with detachable collars.
- , a turnover shirt collar with long points, as worn by the actor John Barrymore . The style reappeared in the 1970s .
- , a wide, flat, round collar, often of lace or sheer fabric, worn with a low neckline in the Victorian era and resurrected in the 1940s .
- , a collar with buttonholes on the points to fasten it to the body of the shirt .
- , same as '''mandarin collar'''.
- , same as '''mandarin collar'''.
- , a collar fashioned like a Cape and hanging over the shoulders.
- , a woman's collar for a low V-neckline, with a stand and long points, popular in the 1960s and 1970s .
- , band collar worn as part of Clerical Clothing
- , a collar designed to be worn with the neck button either fastened or unfastened.
- a high standing collar opening to one side and frequently trimmed with Embroidery ; popular under the influence of the 1965 film '' Doctor Zhivago ''.
- or '''false-collar''', a collar made as a separate accessory to be worn with a band-collared shirt.
- , a collar with rectanglar points falling over the chest, worn in the 17th Century and remaining part of Anglican Clerical Clothing into the 19th Century .
- , a collar styled like an 18th Century Fichu , a large Neckerchief folded into a triangular shape and worn with the point in the back and the front corners tied over the breast.
- , a standing collar with the points pressed to stick out Horizontal ly at the side-fronts, worn with a Scarf or ascot; popularized by the British Prime Minister William Ewart Gladstone .
- , a standing collar with a Pleat ed, Ruffled , or Lace -trimmed Frill down the front.
- , a women's style with an open, short V-neck and a flat, often knit collar.
- , the un-starched, flat, protruding collar of a Tennis Shirt , invented by René Lacoste .
- , a small standing collar, open at the front, based on traditional Chinese garments.
- , a woman's shirt collar made like a man's shirt collar with a stand and stiffened or buttoned-down points.
- , a short, almost straight standing collar folded over, with the points extending only to the base of the band, characteristic of the Mao Suit .
- , a sailor collar (from ''' Midshipman '''), popular for women's and children's clothing in the early 20th Century
- or '''mockneck''', a knitted collar similar to a turtleneck but without a turnover
- , a small standing collar, meeting at the front, based on traditional Indian garments, popular in the 1960s with the Nehru Jacket .
- , a small, flat, round-cornered collar without a stand, popular for women's and children's clothing in the mid-20th century.
- , a round, flat, limp collar based on the costume worn by the Commedia Dell'Arte character Pierrot .
- , a soft shirt collar, often with long points, worn by Romantic poets such as Lord Byron , or a 1970s style reminiscent of this.
- , a dress-shirt collar style inspired by Edward VIII when he was Prince of Wales. A cutaway collar, like a Windsor collar, but not as wide-set, less stiff, and with longer points.
- , any collar that is softly rolled where it folds down from the stand (as opposed to a collar with a pressed crease at the fold).
- , any collar with rounded points.
- , a collar with a deep V-neck in front, no stand, and a square back, based on traditional Sailor 's Uniform s
- , a round collar for a V-neckline that is extended to form Lapel s, often used on Cardigan Sweater s and women's blouses.
- , a shirt collar with a wide spread between the points, which can accommodate a bulky Necktie Knot .
- , a shirt collar with a small tab that fastens the points together underneath the knot of the necktie.
- ( U.S. ) or ''' Polo Neck ''' ( UK ), a knitted collar reaching up to the chin with a turnover.
- ( U.S. ), a popular Polish collar worn by bankers.
- , an otherwise flat, protruding collar of either a shirt (especially a Tennis Shirt ), jacket, or coat that has been turned upward, either for sport use, warmth, or as either a "fashion signal" or a perceived Status Symbol .
by Anthony Van Dyck .]]
- or '''vandyke collar''', a large collar with deep points standing high on the neck and falling onto the shoulders, usually trimmed with lace or Reticella , worn in the second quarter of the 17th century, as seen in portraits by Anthony Van Dyck .
- , a dress-shirt collar that is slightly stiff, with a wide spread (space between the points) to accommodate a Windsor knot tie. Popularized in the 1930s.
- or '''wingtip collar''', a small standing collar with the points pressed to stick out Horizontal ly, resembling "wings", worn with men's Evening Dress ( White Tie or Black Tie ); a descendant of Gladstone collar. Used by Barristers in the UK
- or '''whisk''', a stiffened half-circle collar with a tall stand, worn in the early 17th century.
From the contrast between the starched white shirt collars worn by businessmen in the early 20th Century and the blue chambray workshirts worn by laborers comes the use of collar colors in job designation, the "workforce colorwheel". Examples are '' Blue-collar '', '' Pink-collar '' and '' White-collar ''.
The act of "popping your collar" is one in which one upturns the collar from its resting position so it stands on its own around the neck. It is a sign of self-aggrandizement in Flirtation . The act is especially cherished in the popular american rock culture of the 1970's and is finding a revival in modern hip hop.
Oxford English Dictionary
Picken, Mary Brooks: ''The Fashion Dictionary'', Funk and Wagnalls, 1957. (1973 edition ISBN 0308100522)
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