is a striking rock and ice pyramid in the Central
Alaska Range , about 8 miles (13 km) south-southeast of
Mount McKinley . It is also about 6 miles (10 km) east of
Mount Hunter . While overshadowed in absolute elevation by McKinley, Huntington is a steeper peak: in almost every direction, faces drop over 5000 feet (1525 m) in about a mile (1.6 km). Even its easiest route presents significantly more technical challenge than the standard route on McKinley, and it is a favorite peak for high-standard technical climbers.
Mount Huntington was first climbed in 1964 by famed French alpinist
Lionel Terray , via the Northwest Ridge, also called the French Ridge.
The second ascent the following year, via the West Face/West Rib, is chronicled by noted climber and author David Roberts in ''The Mountain of My Fear''. The mountain can be accessesd either from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier, on the north side of the mountain, or the Tokositna Glacier, on the south side.
- David Roberts, ''The Mountain of My Fear/Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative'', The Mountaineers, 1991.
- Michael Wood and Colby Coombs, ''Alaska: A Climbing Guide'', The Mountaineers, 2001.
