| 1880s In Fashion |
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Fashion in the 1880s in Europe an and European-influenced countries is characterized by the return of the Bustle . The long, lean line of the 1870s was replaced by a full, curvy silhouette with gradually widening shoulders. Fashionable waists were low and tiny below a full, low bust supported by a Corset . The Rational Dress Society was founded in 1881 in reaction to the extremes of fashionable corsetry. WOMEN'S FASHION Overview As in the previous decade, emphasis remained on the back of the skirt, with fullness gradually rising from behind the knees to just below the waist. The fullness over the buttocks was balanced by a fuller, lower bosom, achieved by rigid corseting, creating an S-shaped silhouette. Skirts were looped, draped, or tied up in various ways, and worn over matching or contrasting underskirts. The '' Polonaise '' was a revival style based on a fashion of the 1780s, with a fitted, cutaway overdress caught up and draped over an underskirt. Long, jacket-like fitted bodices called Basque s were also popular for daywear. Evening gowns were sleeveless and lownecked (except for matrons), and were worn with long gloves. Choker Necklace s and Jewelled Collars were fashionable under the influence of Alexandra, Princess Of Wales , who wore this fashion to disguise a scar on her neck. Hairstyles and headgear Hair was pulled back at the sides and worn in a low knot or cluster of ringlets. Bonnet s resembled Hat s except for their ribbons tied under the chin; both had curvy brims. Style gallery # tennis costume. # Portrait of Lady Meux (1881-1882) shows the fashionable full bosom. # has fitted bodice with a low point in front. The front of the skirt is cutaway and the back is looped up after the fashion of 1780s. It is shown over a gored skirt with ruffles. Throughout the century, younger teenage girls ("misses" in fashion plates) wore their skirts just above their ankles. # in a Riding Habit , 1884. Her habit has the fashionable corseted silhouette, with a simpler skirt suited for riding, tall shirt collar, and top hat. # fashion plate shows the "back shelf" bustle. The gown is draped up at both sides and worn over a matching underskirt. # which is both strongly influenced by menswear and bustled. Not typical high-fashion # of practical women's attire is seen in this poster showing Annie Oakley wearing shorter skirts and a complete lack of a bustle (acceptable for poorer rural frontier women and/or paid public performers). # showing two young ladies dressed according to the latest Western fashions of time — except that the colors and designs of the fabrics are to Japanese tastes. SEE ALSO REFERENCES Arnold, Janet : ''Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction C.1860-1940'', Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 0896760278 Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914'', Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0810963175 Black, J. Anderson and Madge Garland: ''A History of Fashion'', Morrow, 1975. ISBN 0688028934 EXTERNAL LINKS |
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