| 1820s In Fashion |
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During the 1820s in European and European-influenced countries, fashionable women's clothing styles transitioned away from the classically-influenced "Empire"/"Regency" styles of ca. 1795-1820 (with their relatively unconfining Empire Silhouette ) and re-adopted elements that had been characteristic of most of the 18th century (and were to be characteristic of the remainder of the 19th century), such as full skirts and clearly visible Corset ing of the natural waist. The silhouette of men's fashion changed in similar ways: by the mid-1820s Coats featured broad shoulders with puffed sleeves, a narrow waist, and full skirts. Trousers were worn for smart day wear, while Breeches continued in use at court and in the country. __FORCETOC__ WOMEN'S FASHIONS During the first half of the 1820s, there were slight gradual modifications of Regency styles, with the position of the waistline trending successively lower than the high waistline of the Regency (just below the breasts), and also further development of the trends of the late 1810s towards giving skirts a somewhat conical silhouette (as opposed to earlier more clinging and free-flowing styles), and in having various types of Decoration (sometimes large and ornate) applied horizontally around the dress near the hem. However, there was still no radical break with the Empire/Regency aesthetic. During the second half of the 1820s, this neo-classical aesthetic was decisively repudiated, preparing the way for the main fashion features of the next ten to fifteen years (large sleeves, somewhat strict corseting of the natural waist, full skirts, elaborate large-circumference hats, and visual emphasis on wide sloping shoulders). Around 1826, fabrics with large bold checkerboard or plaid patterns were seen on various fashion plates (another contrast with the previous fashion period, which had favored small delicate pastel prints). A Bustle was sometimes also worn. This illustration gives examples of late 1820s fashions; the rightmost outfit, with its skimpier sleeves, non-whitish color scheme, and slightly lower neckline, is the evening dress: Style gallery #'s blue dress of 1822 is slightly cone-shaped, and is trimmed with frills around the hem. She carries a deep red Shawl with a Paisley patterned border. # of a "carriage" or travelling dress of 1824 has fur trim and a matching muff. Note lower waist, fuller sleeves, and wider skirt. MEN'S FASHIONS By the mid-1820s, men's fashion plates show a shapely ideal silhouette with broad shoulders, narrow waist, and very curvy hips. Shirt s featured tall standing Collars and were worn with wide Cravats tied in a soft bow. Coats and Waistcoat s had high shawl-like collars to frame the face and were cut straight across the waist. Waistcoats were buttoned high on the chest. Cutaway coats were still worn as in the Previous Period , but the skirts might almost meet at the front waist. Frock Coat s had the same nipped-in waist and full skirts. Very fashionable sleeves were gathered or pleated into a slightly puffed "leg of mutton" shape. Coats could be made of Wool or Velvet , and jewel colors like bottle green and midnight blue were high style. Double-breasted coats were very much in fashion throughout the decade. Full-length light-colored trousers were worn for day; these were cut full through the hips and thighs, tapering to the ankles. They were held smoothly in place by straps fastened under the square-toed shoes. Breeches were worn for formal functions at the British court (as they would be throughout the century). Breeches were also worn for Horseback Riding and other country pursuits, especially in Britain, with tall fitted boots. The crowns of tall Hat s also became curvy in keeping with the new style, and began to flare from the headband to the top. Curled Hair and Sideburn s were fashionable. Style gallery # wears a high shirt collar and white cravat tied in a wide bow. His jacket collar and lapels form a continuous curve very like a shawl collar. 1820-22. #, a stout man wears country clothes (breeches and riding boots) at the Royal Exchange in London. Hats of 1823 are not yet curvy, and the straight-bottomed waistcoat shows slightly below the coat in front. # wears a gray coat over a satin single-breasted waistcoat and a tall-collared shirt that reaches to his ears, with a white cravat. Spanish , 1826. REFERENCES Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914'', Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0810963175 Picken, Mary Brooks: ''The Fashion Dictionary'', Funk and Wagnalls, 1957. (1973 edition ISBN 0308100522) Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, ''Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their Clothes 1770-1870, Laura Ashley Press, ISBN 0950891304 Walker, Richard: ''The Savile Row Story'', Prion, 1988, ISBN 185375000X |
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