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Fashion in the period 1650-1700 in Western Europe an Clothing is characterised by rapid change. Following the end of the Thirty Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II , military influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the Coat , Waistcoat and Breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half. In the normal cycle of fashion, the broad, high-waisted silhouette of the Previous Period was replaced by a long, lean line with a low waist for both men and women. This period also marked the rise of the Periwig as an essential item of men's fashion. MEN’S FASHION Overview With the end of the derives. Coat and Waistcoat The unfitted looser fit of the 1640s continued into the 1650s. In the 1650s, Sleeve s ranged from above to below the elbow. The sleeves could be slashed, unslashed, or dividing into two parts and buttoned together. The length of the coat reached the waist but by the late 1650s and early 1660s, the coat became very short, only reaching the bottom of the rib cage, much like a bolero jacket. During the 1660s, the sleeves varied a lot from elbow length to no sleeves at all. The coat could be worn opened or buttoned in the front. One common factor were many yards of ribbon loops arranged on the shoulders and the lower parts of the sleeves. A longer and rather baggy coat (still with sleeves rarely going below the elbow) made an appearance in the early 1660s and as the decade progressed became the most popular coat. By the late 1660s, an upturned cuff became popular although the sleeves had still remained above the elbows. By the 1670s, a Waistcoat was worn under the coat. It usually consisted of a contrasting color and had a different texture or pattern. It was a long garment which by the 1680s reached just above the knees. With the end of the 1670s the sleeves became longer and the coat more fitted. The 1680s saw larger upturned cuffs and the waist of the coat became much wider. The coat could have lapels or none. This coat is known as the ''justaucorps''. The pockets on both sides of the justaucorps were arranged vertically until the 1690s when they became horizontal. The waistcoat could be sleeveless or have long sleeves. Typically, a long-sleeved waistcoat was worn in winter for added warmth. By the mid 1680s, ribbons were reduced to one side of the shoulder until by the 1690s, they were gone. Shirt, Collar and Cravat wears red ribbon knots under his lace cravat and a blond wig, 1686]] The ruffled long-sleeved white Shirt remained the only constant throughout the period, although less of it was seen with the advent of the waistcoat. During the early to mid 1650s, a rather small falling Collar was in fashion. This increased in size and encompassed much of the shoulders by 1660. Cravats around the neck started to be worn during the early 1660s (initially with the falling collar). By the mid 1660s, the collar had disappeared with just the cravat remaining sometimes tied with a small bow of ribbon. Red was the most common color for the bow, although pink, blue, and other colors were also used. By the 1670s, the bow of ribbons had increased in size and in the 1680s, the bow of ribbons became very large and intricate with many loops of ribbon. By the mid 1690s, the very large bow of ribbons was discarded. Also, a new style of cravat made its appearance in the 1690s, the ''Steinkerk'' (named after the Battle Of Steenkerque in 1692 ). Before, the cravat was always worn flowing down the chest; the Steinkerk cravat looped through a button hole of the coat. Breeches and Stockings The previous decade saw Spanish breeches as the most popular. These were stiff, uncollected breeches which fell above the knee and were rather moderately fitted. While they remained very popular in Spain throughout the 1650s, in the rest of Western Europe, much looser, uncollected breeches, called Petticoat Breeches became the most popular. As the 1650s progressed, they became larger and looser, very much giving the impression of a lady’s Petticoat . They were usually decorated with many yards of ribbon around the waist and around the ungathered knee on the outside of the leg. Alongside the petticoat breeches, a collected but still loose fitted breeches called Rhinegraves , were also worn. By the early 1660s, their popularity surpassed petticoat breeches. They were usually worn with an overskirt over them. The overskirt was heavily decorated with ribbon on the waist and the bottom of the skirt. Its length was usually just above the knee, but could also extend past the knee so that the rhinegraves underneath could not be seen and only the bottom of the stocking-tops was visible. With the rising popularity of the longer coat and waistcoat, the large collected rhingraves and overskirt were abandoned in favor of more close fitting breeches. By the late 1670s, close fitted breeches were worn with the stockings worn over them and above the knee, being gartered with a garter below the knee. With the long waistcoat and stockings worn over the knee, very little of the breeches could be seen. A possible reason that the stockings were worn over the knee, was to give the impression of longer legs since the waist coat fell very low, just above the knee. The breeches tended to be of the same material as the coat. The stockings varied in color. Footwear and Accessories Shoes again became the most popular footwear during the 1650s. Although boots managed to linger on for a bit and then later only used for riding. Boots were responsible for the fashion of wearing boot-hose and stocking-tops. Due to the abrasiveness of wearing boots, stockings would wear away quickly. So boot-hose were worn over the stocking. Even when boots fell out of fashion, the boot-hose remained. They usually were of a contrasting color to the stockings underneath. Usually stocking-tops were the part of the boot-hose displayed over the boots and flowed down them. They were made of lace and added additional ornamentation. These became so popular that were worn even without boots or boot-hose. Boot-hose lasted well in the mid 1660s, attached right under where the rhinegraves were gathered below the knee. Shoes from the 1650s through the 1670s tended to be square toed and bit long in appearance. Usually the shoes were tied with ribbon and decorated with bows. By the 1680s, the shoe became a bit more fitted; the heel increased in height (with red heels being very popular), and only a small ribbon if any remained. The Baldric (a sword hanger worn across one shoulder) was worn until the mid 1680s, when it was replaced by the sword belt (a sword hanger worn across the hips). Hairstyles Throughout the period, men wore their hair long with flowing curls well past the shoulders. The bangs were usually combed forward and allowed to flow over the forehead a bit. Although men had worn wigs for years to cover up thinning hair or baldness, the popularity of the was well known for wearing blond wigs. Hats and Headgear Hat s vary greatly during this period. Hats with very tall crowns were popular until the end of the 1650s. The brims varied as well. Hats were decorated with feathers. By the 1660s, a very small hat with a very low crown, little brim, and large amount of feathers was popular amongst the French courtiers. Later in the 1660s, very large brims and moderate crowns became popular. Sometimes one side of the brim would be turned up. These continued fashionable well into the 1680s. From the 1680s until 1700, various styles and combinations of upturned brims were in fashion, from one brim upturned to three brims upturned (the ''tricorne''). Even the angle at which the brims were situated on the head varied. Sometimes with a tricorne, the point would meet over the forehead or it would be set at a 45 degree angle from the forehead. Style Gallery #, 1658. White boothose, petticoat breeches #, 1658. Note tall hat with dyed ostrich plumes. #, 1663, showing very short coat and masses of ribbon loops. #, 1660s. Short coat with short sleeves. #, 1665. The hat has a broad brim and shallow crown, elaborate stocking-tops, rhinegraves, and overskirt. #, 1675, with red bow under cravat. # of 1678. The coat has vertically-placed pockets on the long skirts, stockings worn over the breeches. #, 1680s. Vertical coat pockets and tricorne hat, stockings worn over the breeches. SEE ALSO EXTERNAL LINKS
REFERENCES Arnold, Janet : ''Patterns of Fashion 1 (cut and construction of women's clothing, 1660-1860),'' Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 089676026X Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914'', Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0810963175 Black, J. Anderson and Madge Garland: ''A History of Fashion'', Morrow, 1975. ISBN 0688028934 Brooke, Iris: Western European Costume II, Theatre Arts Books, 1966. |
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