| 1550-1600 In Fashion |
Website Links For Fashion |
Information About1550-1600 In Fashion |
| CATEGORIES ABOUT 1550-1600 IN FASHION | |
| 16th century | |
| fashion | |
| history of clothing europe | |
| history of fashion | |
|
Fashion in the period 1550-1600 in Western Europe an Clothing is characterized by increased opulence, the rise of the Ruff , the expansion of the Farthingale for women, and, for men, the disappearance of the Codpiece . GENERAL TRENDS The wide, broad-shouldered silhouette of the 1540s And 1550s gradually shifted to a tall, slender look. Sleeve s and shoulders became narrower in the 1560s, expanded through the 1570s and 1580s, and narrowed again at the end of the period. Waistline s dropped toward a low point in front for both men and women. The severe fashions of the Spanish Court under Philip II Of Spain were dominant through the early part of the period every where except France ; black garments were worn for the most formal occasions. Regional styles were still distinct. Janet Arnold in her analysis of Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe records identifies French, Italian , Dutch , and Polish styles for Bodice s and sleeves, as well as Spanish. Ruffs increased in size throughout the period and then began to disappear everywhere except Holland , where they remained in fashion well into the next century. The general trend toward abundant surface ornamentation in the s and Chemise s were Embroider ed with Blackwork and edged in Lace , and heavy cut Velvet s and Brocade s were further ornamented with applied lace, Gold and Silver embroidery, and Jewel s. Leather and fabric garments continued to be decorated by slashing and punching the fabric in regular patterns, and Linings could be pulled through the slashes in small ''puffs''. MEN'S FASHION in the narrow fashions of the 1560s: Ruff, doublet, slashed leather jerkin, and paned trunk hose with codpiece.]] wears an embroidered cape with a collar over his doublet.]] Overview Men's fashionable clothing consisted of:
Outerwear Short Cloak s or Cape s, usually hip-length, often with Sleeve s, or a military Jacket like a Mandilion , were fashionable. Long cloaks were worn for inclement weather. Gown s were increasingly old-fashioned, and were worn by older men for warmth indoors and out. In this period gowns began their transition from general garments to traditional clothing of specific occupations, such as scholars (see Academic Dress ). Hairstyles and headgear Hair was generally worn short, brushed back from the forehead. Longer styles were popular in the 1580s . In the 1590s , young men of fashion wore a ''lovelock'', a long section of hair hanging over one shoulder. Hat s, of various shapes and fashions, but generally tall and trimmed with a jewel or Feather , were worn indoors and out. Close-fitting caps covering the ears and tied under the chin called Coif s or ''biggins'' continued to be worn by children and older men under their hats or alone indoors; men's coifs were usually black. Style gallery # (later Henri III Of France wears doublet and matching cape withb the high collar and figure-of-eight ruff of c. 1570. # in a peascod-bellied doublet with full sleeves under a buff jerkin with matching hose. # (d. 1598) in old age. Spanish fashion changed very little from the 1560s to the end of the century. # wears a fur-lined gown with hanging sleeves over a slashed doublet and hose, with the Livery Collar of the Order Of The Garter , c. 1590. #, 1594. Note the lovelock hanging over one shoulder, the wide lace-trimmed collar, and gloves with deep embroidered cuffs. Trunk hose are still worn over cannions, but without a prominent codpiece, and are longer, with fullness at the bottom. WOMEN'S FASHION Overview The wide "trumpet" sleeves characteristic of Tudor England disappeared with the accession of Elizabeth, in favor of French and Spanish styles with narrower sleeves. Bodice s could be high-necked or have a broad, low, square neckline, often with a slight arch at the front early in the period. French, Spanish, and English bodices were stiffened into a cone shape or worn over Corset s. The wide-shouldered look of the 1580s was emphasized with padded and jeweled ''shoulder rolls''. Bodices fastened with hooks in front or were laced at the side-back seam; high-necked bodices styled like men's doublets might fasten with hooks or buttons. A low neckline could be filled in with a ''partlet'', usually of embroidered linen with matching sleeves. Embroidered sets of partlet and sleeves were frequently given to Elizabeth as New Year's gifts. Alternatively, a high-necked chemise with a standing collar and ruff could be worn. Gowns with hanging sleeves in various styles, often lined in Fur , were worn as an extra layer indoors and out through the period. Loose gowns of the 1560s hung from the shoulders, and some had puffed upper sleeves. Loose gowns could be worn over a one-piece ''kirtle'' or under-dress, usually laced at the back. Later gowns were fitted to the figure and had full or round sleeves with a wristband. These were worn over a bodice and matching skirt or Petticoat and undersleeves. Extremely long hanging sleeves came into fashion at the end of the period. The fashion for skirts worn open at the front to display a rich petticoat or separate ''forepart'' continued into the 1580s. The forepart was a heavily decorated panel to fill in the front opening; it might be sewn to a plain petticoat or pinned in place. Underwear During this period, Underwear consisted of a Linen Chemise Or Smock and (optionally) linen drawers. The chemise could have a low, square neckline or a high collar and ruff like a man's shirt. Fine chemises were embroidered and trimmed with narrow Lace . To shape the figure, the fashionable lady wore a Corset called a ''pair of bodies''. Her skirts were held in the proper shape by a Farthingale or Hoop Skirt . In Spain, the cone-shaped ''Spanish farthingale'' remained in fashion into the early 17th century. It never really caught on in France, where a padded roll or ''French farthingale'' held the skirts out in a rounded shape at the waist, falling in soft folds to the floor. In England, the Spanish farthingale was worn through the 1570s, and was gradually replaced by the French farthingale. By the 1590s, skirts were pinned to wide wheel farthingales to achieve a drum shape. Outerwear Hooded cloaks were worn overall in bad weather. Hairstyles and headgear Early in the period, hair was parted in the center and fluffed over the temples; later front hair was curled and puffed high over the forehead. Wigs and false hairpieces were used to extend the hair. In keeping with tradition, married women wore their hair pinned up and covered. A close-fitting linen cap called a Coif or ''biggins'' was worn, alone or under other hats; many embroidered and lace-trimmed coifs survive from this period. A cap wired or starched into slight heart-shape is called by costume historians a ''Mary Stuart cap'' after the Queen Of Scots who wears one in several portraits. In this period, women began to wear Hat s similar to those worn by men, a fashion which was deplored by Puritan commentator Philip Stubbes in his ''Anatomie of Abuses'' 1583. First-time Bride s wore their hair down in token of Virgin ity and wore orange blossoms in their hair. Style gallery #In this wears a fitted gown with hanging sleeves over a matching arched bodice and skirt or petticoat, elaborate undersleeves, a high-necked chemise with a ruff, and a Spanish farthingale. # wears an embroidered black high-necked bodice with round sleeves and skirt over a gold petticoat or forepart and matching undersleeves, a lace cartwheel ruff and lace cuffs, and a tall black hat with a jeweled ostrich feather. C. 1580s. # wears a Spanish farthingale and closed overskirt. The long pointed oversleeves are uniquely Spanish. # in captivity wears French fashions: her open ruff fastens at the base of the neck, and her skirt hangs in soft folds over a French farthingale. She wears a cap and veil. #, 1592, wears a dark red gown (the fabric is just visible at the waist under her arms) with hanging sleeves lined in white satin to match her bodice, undersleeves, and petticoat, which is pinned to a cartwheel farthingale. She carries leather gloves and an early folding Fan . SEE ALSO REFERENCES Arnold, Janet: ''Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd'', W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. ISBN 0901286206 Arnold, Janet: ''Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620'', Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0896760839) Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914'', Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0810963175 Ashelford, Jane. ''The Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century''. 1983 edition (ISBN 0896760766), 1994 reprint (ISBN 0713468289). Digby, George Wingfield. ''Elizabethan Embroidery''. New York: Thomas Yoseloff, 1964. EXTERNAL LINKS
|
|
|